Francis Fabron

Francis Fabron, the perfumer, has a very delicate manner in composing fragrances. All I know are compositions built in the so called french style, a very polished feminine style, delicately powdered (the classical accord rose-jasmin + iris + violet and sometimes aldehydes). Working with Roure, he created l'Air du Temps, L'interdit, Le Dix. I know that he created many other fragrances for french couturiers but I was not abble to identify them.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Josephine Catapano

She was one of the first american perfumers, with Ernest Shiftan, at IFF. Later she was also a mentor for the perfumer Sophia Grojsman. But little is known about her creations. Among her greatest succeses is the beautiful Fidji (1965) created for Guy Laroche. Another is Norell, which she considered her best and beloved creation. Catapano worked as if she were gathering a huge, intricate bouquet, with one note carefully balancing another. "We all knew the formula was long," she says, "like a treaty."I am trying to find other biographical datas about Catapano and her perfumes. Do you have some sugestions?

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

about ernest shiftan...

Besides the fact that he was one of the greatest perfumers of IFF and creator of what is known as american parfumery, there is little known about him.I found that he was the mentor of the well known Sophia Grojsman.Unfortunatelly I do not know anything about his creations or technique. I contacted IFF NY but as usually, no answer to my request !

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

shortcuts in fragrances

Once Jean Claude Ellena said his mission was to create shortcuts in perfumes, illusions of the reality.
" Je ne cherche pas à copier la réalité, mais à donner ma vision, mon idée de la fleur."
Here are some examples of those shortcuts:
freesia - β ionone + linalool and little allyl amyl glicolate
orange blossom - linalool + methyl anthranilate
chocolate - isobutyle phenylacetate + vaniline
reglisse - anis + myrrha)
tomato leaf - mandarine + galbanum

I should also add what Luca Turin once said:
jasmin flower - banana + lemon
blackcurrant - rhum + menthe

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Looking for synonims

I tryed to find the chemical name / CAS for the following products. But without succes. :(

Firmenich: HEXAROSE, CISDIONE, MUGOXAL, PHENEXAL, TARRAGOL TETRAROME, FLOREX

Albert Verley: alcool tubérique, alcool jasminique, sesquirolène, ambrettogène

Roure: Epicylene, Firmaflore, Myrnile, Verbenia X, Isocaryol acetate, Dicyclamyle, Sylvestone, Boskol

Does anyone have some ideas?

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Most WANTED !

Revisiting Chandler's site I found an unpublished section that gave me lot of thoughts and desires while reading it for the first time.

There is a stuff that I wish I could put my hands on ! - The Givaudan odour chart.

"The chart, a pirated copy of which you can get rather easily, cannot legally be reproduced here, but it is basically two axes, the vertical being Vapor Pressure (VP, you put a bunch of the molecules in a canister, stick a tube in the top, and measure the number of molecules that escape per second), the horizontal being the smell "threshold," the more subjective question "What's the lowest concentration people can actually smell?" You find a molecule's strength- Givaudan calls it the "odor value" or OV-by dividing the Vapor Pressure by the Threshold" - from chandler burr

it seems it's not quite easy to have it. ! :(

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art