Pompeïa - a treasure from the past

This floral perfume, created în 1907 by the famous perfumer Pierre Armingeat (1874 - 1955) for the house of L.T.Piver was one of the first to use the aldehydic note together with amyl salycilate.
The formula I present is an interpretation (a carbon copy :) using some period bases. Two remarks: α hexyl cinnamic aldehyde did not exist în 1907, neither Bulgarome (Synarome). :)
The present Pompeia found in some parisian stores is only a faint image of the past glory.

Bergamot e.o. 260
Lemon e.o. 110
Sweet orange e.o. 55
Aldehyde C12 10% 50
Ylang - ylang I e.o. 50
Neroli bigarade e.o. 10
Neroli (Heiko) 20
Methyl ionone 30
Amyl salycilate 60
Costone (Heiko) 30
Iris abs. 60
Vanillin 10
Vanilla abs. 10
Heliotropine 60
Iris conc. 30
Rose (Heiko) 50
Rose de Mai abs. 25
α hexyl cinnamic aldehyde 20
Rusconyl (Heiko) 10
Aldecuir (Synarome) 15
Bulgarome (Synarome) 20
Ambracivettol (Heiko) 15

The Pompeia extract
The concentrate 100 ml
Ethanol 870 ml
Amber tinct. 20 ml
Rose water 10 ml

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Pattern recognition

Collage is a very often technique used nowadays in the "creation" of new perfumes: little from here, some from there and the basic structure from another fragrance. When someone knows the original creations it's easy to identify them. The same happens when one has to identify the members of group by analyzing their faces. It's something called pattern recognition. If someone has all the head space information (formulas) of the fragrances on the market would it be possible with a computer based program to identify the relations, genealogy, and classify those perfumes?
All today classifications are based on human expertise (perfumers). Is it possible to apply the same pattern recognition with the machine for perfumes?

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

The "indirect" perfume material

They are non odorous material, but with the faculty to modify a perfume. The fixatives would be only a class of this unexplored territory. An idea inspired by the natural fragrance of plants and suggested by Y.R.Naves în 1951.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Marius Reboul (1873-1952) - Givaudan's genius

He is one of the greatest perfumers of all time, famous not for its commercial fragrances but for the wonderful bases and specialties created for Givaudan and then used by most of Parisian perfumers. His job was to "dress up" strong molecules to make their use easier. His stroke of genius were undoubtedly the bases Sophora and Melittis well known and universally copied. An accord he created one day, hidroxicitronellal-coumarine - spicy notes inspired Almeras's creation for Patou, Moment supreme. Another accord, coumarine-methyl ionone - woody notes was the base for great perfumes like Un Air Embaume (Rigaud) or l'Aimant (Coty). His biggest hits for Givaudan were Fleur de Muguet 16 and Fleur de lilas VII (a must for all floral aldehydic perfumes), Cuir de Russie, Cetonia, Opopanax LG.I wonder how much of his work survived and if there is a perfume today still using some of this old bases.:)

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Robert Gonnon

He won in 1958 the Prize of the French Technical Perfumers Society. Curiously the name and the description of this fragrance are not indicated neither by SFP nor by the Osmotheque. I hope it's just a regrettable error.In his career until 1988 when he passed away, Gonnon was a renowned perfumer. Author of 2 well known Lancôme fragrances (O & Sikkim) he created also Empreintes (Courreges) and participated at the creation of Anais Anais.Doing my researches I am interested to know which were his masters and if created also the other Courreges perfumes from the 70's.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Arno Müller

This chemist - perfumer worked between the 2 wars at Heine&Co., Allendorff and finally was the perfumer of Usines Allondon. He is the author of the well known (in that period) Riechstoffcodex and Codex der Aeterischen Oele. As a perfumer he created mainly bases to be used by other perfumers. He had a curious way to compose : first base notes than top and only after middle notes. All was abstractly done, mental and in the end he did the necessary corrections. He is the author of the impurities theory, of some viscosity and superficial tension in aroma chemicals, studies about interfacial tensions and of a theory about olfactive sensation.
I do not know if he created also fragrances.

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art