Nuit de Chine is a forgotten masterpiece and a delicious fragrance constructed over the sandal note. Maurice Shaller, first a glass maker for Poiret and then a perfumer (by accident it was said:), creator of the famous Carnet de bal (Revillon) created his first perfume for Poiret within the Amber sweet family. It was recreated at Versailles and I had the chance to study its evolution. The first impression is of a fruity version of Origan with sandal overdose without being overpowering. The typical sandal used in ancient China as an incense was probably a source of inspiration for Nuit de Chine. The fruity note is realized with the base Persicol (Chuit Naef). The central note is a delicious combination of rose-jasmine with spicy notes (cinnamon and girofle) while the base note is of an oriental type with amber, cistus and musk powdered with sandal. The first name of the perfume was Nuit d'Orient but it soon evolved into its Chinese version, reflected also by the bottle inspired by a traditional opium bottle. In that period it was very expensive - "I don't preach you the economy, I'm speaking only about elegance. Buy Nuit de Chine!" said Poiret. In my opinion this perfume inspired in some way the classical Soir de Paris (Bourjois).
You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album
Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications)
and about Rosine perfumes in
Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes
.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
