Chanel No 5 - copycat formula

Here you have a formula done in the 60's of the famous Chanel No5. Of course it's not the original one, but a "carboncopy" which reflects the fascination for this type of formulation among perfumers. In the 60's there were a lot of aldehydic fragrances, most of them inspired by No 5 and Arpege: Caleche (Hermes), Madame Rochas, Calandre, etc.

Jasmin abs. decol. 50
Jasmin abs. (ether petrol) 100
Mai Rose abs. 60
Tuberose abs. 5
Lilly of the valley base 50
Lilac base 50
Fantaisie 2550 (Firmenich) 70
Jasmin art. reconst. 50
Neroli e.o. 10
Bulgarian rose e.o. 20
Ylang-ylang Bourbon e.o. 40

γ metil ionone 50
Cedarom (Firmenich) 40
Guayac acetate extra 10
Vetiverol 10
Santalol 10

Aldehyde C10 100% 1
Aldehyde C9 100% 1
Aldehyde C11-enique 100% 1

Mousse de chene abs. 4
Bergamote e.o. 40
Ambre gri base 3
Coumarine 10
Heliotropine 20
Vanilline 5

Musc ambrette 35
Musc cetone 50
Amber tinct. 3% 100
Civet tinct. 3% 50
Musc Tonkin tinct. 3% 100

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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art

Recreating Origan

Origan by Coty was once one of the most famous and adored fragrances. Totally lost today there are still 2 good 80% copies (!) of its main theme: Tosca (4711 Muelhens) and Oscar de la Renta. I am smelling today a vintage Origan. Although it has "un charme surrane a l'ancienne" one might find still good ideas in this perfume. here you have a schema of this composition type:

Complex Carnation-Dianthine (eugenol + isoeugenol, etc.) 180-200
Methylionone 200-250
Heliotropine 50-80
Opopanax res. 10-20
Vetiver e.o. 30-50
Bergamot e.o. 125-140
Neroli e.o. 25
Rose 40
Castoreum res. 5
Estragon e.o. traces-2
Labdanum - Ambreine 5-8
Amylsalicylat 1-2
Patchouli e.o. 0.3-0.5

The original contained Dianthine & Iralia by Chuit Naef (now Firmenich) and perhaps Ambreine S (Samuelson).

Did you enjoy my article? Sign up for updates about new fragrances, reviews of artistic perfumes and exceptional vintage masterpieces. I would be very happy if you would consider joining 1000 Fragrances, throughRSS feed,GoogleFriend connect, Facebook (more personal), or any other way that appeals to you.

Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art