Le Parfum - book, movie, fragrance

Le Parfum from Patrick Suskind is a must read for every perfume lover. Since the trailer was put on the net, I check every week to see if there is something new on their site.
But there will also a fragrance.
Le Parfum inspired IFFIFF and Thierry Mugler created an olfactive transcription of this best-seller book. I wish to snIFF it as soon as possible because I think that was a terrible chalenge for the perfumer. :)

Sylvie Jourdet

Sylvie Jourdet - Maître-Parfumeur Créateur at Creassence, a lab responsible for many new niche fragrances, is the first woman president of the French Perfumers Society. She is also a teacher at ISIPCA Versailles, the famous perfumery school. I was pleased to see that this little company has its own blog. They also offer some training in the fragrance field but I know little about. On one page there is an interesting picture of a fragrance kit they propose. I wonder what method they use to teach formulation....:)

La Societe Francaise des Parfumeurs

The old fashioned web site of the French Perfumers Society has changed. I was very pleased to discover the new face of the site. Perhaps there will be also more new information about its activity. Unfortunatelly there are still many pages under construction since many years. The library, for instance. I am curious to know if they hold some rare old documents about perfumes... :)

Who was Madame Zed ?

Before the arrival of the perfumers Fraysse and Vacher (cca.1925) and the creation of Arpege, there were some not very known Lanvin fragrances created by a mysterious woman called Madame Zed: Irisé (the favorite of Jeanne Lanvin), Kara-Djenoun, Le sillon, La dogaresse among others.

Madame "Zed" was a Russian, probably a former Brocard employee. I didn't found her name. But was is sure is that she worked for the famous Gabilla perfumery. Some of the designs of Gabilla bottles were used for the early versions of My sin before the creation of the final Lanvin design as we know it from Arpege.
I wonder how these old discontinued Lanvin fragrances smelled and if they could be brought to life as Patou did with Ma Collection.

Paris (1921) - the Coty version

The fascination driven by this famous city inspired many perfumers: Paris (Coty 1923), Paris (YSL 1983), Femme de Paris (Ybry), Luxe de Paris (Bardin), Mademoiselle de Paris (Lancaster '20s), Coeur de Paris (Lentheric), Gloire de Paris (Roger & Gallet), Prestige de Paris (Sauzé), Soir de Paris (Bourjois 1929).
Among all, Paris from Coty was very famous in the '20s. Created by Roubert Vincent it was a floral perfume inspired by the successful Quelques fleurs. The original fragrance was a lovely lilac-rose-hyacinth with a carnation undertone. Its formula contained an aldehydic base from Chuit Naef called Irrozol. Here you have a sketch of this beloved perfume:

Hyacinth base 465
Carnation abs. 57
Ylang-ylang e.o. 155
Heliotropin 108
Musc keton 103
Phenylethyl isobutirat 50
Rose bulgare otto 10
Phenylacetaldehyde 21
Civettin (H&R) 15
Vaniline 16

I ignore when this fragrance was discontinued but it is still available at Versailles Osmotheque.