The second fragrance I received from the contest on madebyblog site is a surprising creation of Sophia Grojsman. Because I have no details on the project, except the fragrance itself, my evaluation will rely only on my perception. :)
It's a WOW fragrance, very original, and with almost no similar shape on the market. For me it's at the limit between wearable and concept fragrance with a love/hate reaction. At least in 2007.
An ocean of white bubbling champagne with floating white and yellow roses, a woman with milky skin and tender age enjoys the careless life. It's 5 o'clock in the morning. The air is fresh and cold and with the sun rising the party is almost finished.
The image I had while smelling this fragrance…. is a scene from Marie Antoinette movie: the party with champagne, candies (the music "Ceremony" - New Order), all the excesses when the innocence meets a bottle of champagne and a lot of candles.
An incredible youth smell, tender, light but melancholic like Opus 23-Dustin O'Halloran.
A smell that is not about sexiness, seduction but of solitude…the party is over, the room is empty, she lies in the silky Louis XV sofa, dreaming of the Prince Charming that didn't come, while falling asleep with a sun ray caressing her smile.
The fragrance is built like a story and you have to follow its evaporation to understand what's happening inside. The construction on a time scale is the opposite of WET, the accent is more on heart-top notes that explodes in the beginning to calm down after in a slow adagio… while in Dominique Ropion's perfume the key idea is on the dry down and the fragrance seems to "grow" in the time in a sensual crescendo.
The fragrance is built around a fresh (yellow?) rose with a light woody-cedar and white musk dry down.
The top note presents an over dose of fruity-butyric notes - "lie de vin" accord. The combination of geranium-camomilla-lie de vin has already been used (in lower dosage however) in Une Rose (Edouard Fléchier for F.Malle). The top is fresh (linalool), slightly peppery (pink pepper), butyrates "lie de vin"-tagette/camomilla, citrusy orange/lemon, slightly aldehydic-grapefruit. On top there is possible a Iitchi note like in Yvresse (YSL). think there is also something carrot seed like, and a pineapple - cyclogalbanate note (+ caproates).
The heart is built around a fresh, almost green rose with light lily of the valley and jasmine notes.
I think there are a lot of acetates in the top-heart note (geranyl, citronellyl, dimethyl benzyl carbinil, cis 3 hexenyl). The rose is more geraniol, geranium, rose oxyde, phenylethyl alcohol. It is fresh, green and soft. There might be also a powdery rose note on the dry down, like Rosetone.
A classic lily of the valley and petaly note brings an overall freshness.
The perfume is slightly sweet (vaniline, heliotropine).
The dry down is woody cedar (Iso E Super), musky (Galaxolide/Exaltolide/Ethylene Brassylate with something powdery musk ketone like), light ambery (Ambroxan).
The fragrance has a lot of surprises inside and is not very easy to evaluate. A lot of small nuances are present, little touches hidden by the very characteristic top note. The only defect I found is that it's to acidic/sour on top but it can also be a question of maturation. On the skin it has a very fresh natural skin odour (the exact slightly acid odour found on some women!).
I still didn't find any similar or close fragrance on the market and it quite impressed me by its newness.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art