The new post on Brocard blog inspired me to find this ad from Femina, I had on my computer.
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Taymir from Brocard
The new post on Brocard blog inspired me to find this ad from Femina, I had on my computer.
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7 commentaires:
Hello Octavian,
I did not have this advertising.
It is confirming to me the fact this perfume was invented in the 1920... So after the Russian revolution, when the Brocard company was re-created in France at St Brice la Forêt, by my ancestors.
Thanks for the picture.
Bertrand
Hello, Octavian!
How is your work on the book about Russian and Soviet perfumes developing? I got 2 volumes of the Soviet trade glossary from 50ies, which contain some articles on perfumery. I will scan them and send them to you.
As for the Brocard and other ancient formulas I would like to ask you something.
Essence is corresponding to essential oil, is that right? Then why is sophora, for example, described as essence? You are writing that it was a Givaudan's base (what was it like?).
Extract is corresponding to absolute. Am I right?
I am also not very good at reading old handwriting, so could you tell me what ingredient follows Musk Ketone and what the very last one.
Thank you in advance for your kind support.
Bertrand: The picture is either from Femina or Vogue. I have to check the collection because when I took the picture I forgot to note the date. As for the formula, if it was done in that that period in France it wouldn't surprise me to have something in common with Un air Embaume by Rigaud. Very famous, succesful and with a lot of advertising in the magazines.
Dimitri:
essence can also mean "essence absolue". In that period the terminology was not so precise. Also, suppliers used this term sometimes for some bases (like ess. fleurs muguet - though there was no lily of the valley extracted)
But in that case is essential oil.
So:
Sophora (Givaudan), ess.oil Patchouli, ess.oil Bergamote, Vaniline, Musk ketone, Rhodinol, Rose (a base with a code), Extrait Orange Flower, Extrait Tuberose, Extrait Jasmin, Infusion Musk Tonkin, Infusion Castoreum, Alcool.
Extrait stands usually for absolute enfleurage.
Dmitri, thank you in advance for those article, quite curios to read them.
Dear Octavian, I will make copies coming weekend and send to you.
Can I ask you some questions?
1. In what grade are ingredients like DEP, DPG, IPM, Phytol essential for a perfume formulation?
2. Caryophyllenol - can it be substituted with clove buds?
3. Sophora (Givaudan) - what did smell like? White flowers mix? Sweet pea direction? Carnation type of mix? Gardenia type? Exotic flowers / Oprchid type?
Thank you an advance,
Dmitri
DEP- diethyl phtalate aka solvent
DPG - dipropylene glycol aka solvent
IPM - isopropyl myristate aka solvent
They are solvents used to help the dilution of some raw materials, hardly soluble (like nitromusks, etc) so... for the smell you can skip them. Some producers would "dilute" the formula of the perfume with DPG to make it cheaper.:))
2. not quite, is a natural constituent of some essential oils.
3. a dry-woody base cedar+vetiver+ionone like with a very very soft tobacco/amber note. I do not have a formula/reconstitution of it.
Thank you very much for your quick answer. After reading more about Caryophyllenol I come to the conclusion that Vetiveryl acetate actually has these odor qualities in it. I guess that one can increase the content of Vetiveryl acetate to compensate the missing Caryophyllenol.
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