Passage 4 - The rose- One of the best roses I smelled these years! A fresh, full bodied flower in the style of Rose de Nuit and all the new Roses (with chypre undertone). It's velvety and opulent but not overpowering. The dry down is musky slightly woody and ambery with a light and nice almost peachy feeling (a very small hint from Tresor). Smell the nice Rose Barbare from Guerlain (that kind of rose-chypre) or the Rose from F Malle, add something spicy and winy on top and you will have this extremely beautiful rose, so well constructed.Passage 8 - The Orris - That was quite a surprise because is not quite the kind of orris you would expect after all on the market. It's an orris with a creamy soft drydown, the kind of smell you'll find in Cashmere mist when violet meets lily of the valley and sandal wood. The top is beautiful!!! with a natural green violet touch, very flowery that gives space to a short natural orris passage and a sweet almondy note. Imagine an almond body silk cream, powdered with orris and decorated with fresh green violet flowers. The base (with a creamy soapy touch) is to be found also in J'adore drydown. But, I still think there is too much ionone alfa, too much soapy note in the end that I dislike.
Passage 9 - The Tuberose - After a strong orange flower impression, the tuberose started to develop. It's a head space type, but fresh, green and soooo natural, life real 3D. It's not a twist on tuberose, just the natural impression of the fresh flowers in an opulent and rich bouquet, but airy. The surprise came on the drydown. It's not the usual way a tuberose partition finishes these years, but rather the kind of accord used in the 80's by Giorgio. It's like proposing a modern tuberose fragrance to rich Americans that used in their youth Giorgio, are nostalgic of that era but wouldn't put anymore that perfume.
I liked them all (the rose is the best) and also liked the way they didn't insisted (as other did) on "so expensive" raw materials, interpreting a side of it… or all the marketing poetry you would see everywhere! It's just a rose, an orris-violet and a tuberose, very well done and very good. Like doing a simple dress in 3 colors, no decoration, just the best materials and craftsmanship. Can't be simpler than that!
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
