Passage 8 - The Orris - That was quite a surprise because is not quite the kind of orris you would expect after all on the market. It's an orris with a creamy soft drydown, the kind of smell you'll find in Cashmere mist when violet meets lily of the valley and sandal wood. The top is beautiful!!! with a natural green violet touch, very flowery that gives space to a short natural orris passage and a sweet almondy note. Imagine an almond body silk cream, powdered with orris and decorated with fresh green violet flowers. The base (with a creamy soapy touch) is to be found also in J'adore drydown. But, I still think there is too much ionone alfa, too much soapy note in the end that I dislike.
Passage 9 - The Tuberose - After a strong orange flower impression, the tuberose started to develop. It's a head space type, but fresh, green and soooo natural, life real 3D. It's not a twist on tuberose, just the natural impression of the fresh flowers in an opulent and rich bouquet, but airy. The surprise came on the drydown. It's not the usual way a tuberose partition finishes these years, but rather the kind of accord used in the 80's by Giorgio. It's like proposing a modern tuberose fragrance to rich Americans that used in their youth Giorgio, are nostalgic of that era but wouldn't put anymore that perfume.
I liked them all (the rose is the best) and also liked the way they didn't insisted (as other did) on "so expensive" raw materials, interpreting a side of it… or all the marketing poetry you would see everywhere! It's just a rose, an orris-violet and a tuberose, very well done and very good. Like doing a simple dress in 3 colors, no decoration, just the best materials and craftsmanship. Can't be simpler than that!
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art