Most of the formulas are not trials but the production formulas - from 5 liters to 40 liters of concentrate. Checking the amount of raw materials used I can say without doubt that they are the true products put on the market in the early 30's. Some of them have a pen check mark, usualy put after weighting. Also the listing order of raw materials is not the usual one in creation (order of volatility, family, etc) but the order used in the lab for compounding.
The formulas I have are:
- (hand written) a night cream from 1929 with the signature of Ernest Beaux
- (hand written) 2 Sycomor fragrance formula (the same just multiplied for a different final amount) Ernest Beaux
- (hand written) a formula by the same Ernest Beaux (with no header). Looking at the products it seems to be No 5 extrait version. I will check in the lab the formula to be sure.
- Rouge (a very rare fragrance from Chanel) formula (hand written, but not Ernest Beaux)
- 2 notebooks from 1930 and 1931 with more than 50 (!!!) formula of cosmetic products with both composition, fragrance, method and for some of them additional notes and comments. Powder fragrances are also presented (Une Idee de Chanel), Huile au jasmin, Huile a la Tubereuse, etc.
- (typemachine) No5 Eau deCologne, Bourjois Fragrances (Mais Oui, Glamour, one Eau de Cologne, for the first 2 Extrait, Eau de Cologne-Lotion for France, Italy, New York - not the same formula, slightly modification) with lab codes, bases and codes, a lot of refferences.
- (typemachine) coded fragrances: 2 aldehydics, one very animal-tobacco, one woody;
- (hand written) 2 Eau de Cologne, one aldehydic unidentified, 1 woody unidentified (they are not written by Ernest Beaux)
That's in a short way the formulas I found. The most precious for me are the first ones, written by Ernest Beaux. If the misterious one is No 5, wellll that will be my happiest day. A Chanel No 5 hand written by Ernest Beaux is not a piece of paper to find everywhere.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art