Rosine - Toute la Forêt (vers 1921)

" Avec Toute la Forêt, nous sommes en pleine verdure. Odeur de terre mouillée, de cèpes, de fougères, nous enveloppe. Les Faunes poursuivent les Nymphes. Prenez garde."

Cristal incolore et transparent, section carrée, épaulement à angle droit, étiquette disposée dans le bas du flacon, bouchon doré à l'or, coffret à dominante verte. Hauteur: 9,5 cm. Verre à transparence turquoise, section circulaire, forme dôme, capsule en métal doré. Hauteur: 9 cm.

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Lanvin - Madame Zede document

Here you have the picture of the document I talked about few days ago.

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Rosine - Nuit de Chine (1913)

Le nom initial de ce parfum, Nuit d'Orient, devient vite Nuit de Chine, écrit en français et chinois, inspiré par une opérette célèbre dans la Belle Epoque.
Il était très cher dans l'époque et la publicité disait: "Madame, je ne vous prêche pas l'économie, je ne vous parle que d'élégance. Achetez Nuit de Chine."

Le flacon en verre, créé par l'illustrateur Sem, imite le jade et une tabatière à opium avec 2 anses latérales et 2 petits anneaux en bakélite bleue, peut être la première fois quand ce matériel a été utilisé pour un flacon à parfum. La boîte este enveloppé en lamé doré. Verre incolore et transparent, panse en forme de tabatière chinoise dotée de deux anneaux en pendant en verre noir, bouchon cabochon en verre noir, étiquette ovale sur une face, le nom inscrit en idéogrammes. Hauteur: 8,8 cm et 11 cm.
Parfum Ambré doux créé par Maurice Schaller.

Composition: santal, patchouli, musc, ambre (peut être Ambre 83), rose-jasmin, cannelle (beaucoup), clou de girofle, vétiver, labdanum, une note fruité pêche - la base Persicol (Chuit Naef). Le thème serait la suite santal-cannelle-pêche dans un nuage d'encens (le bâtons chinois) et de musc.

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Lanvin fragrances before 1925

Little is known about the fragrances of Jeanne Lanvin before 1925 and before the creation of Lanvin Parfums. A misterious Madame Zed, possible employe of Gabilla, is supposed to be the perfumer behind at least 5 fragrances. I thought that Zed was an acronym until yesterday when I found an official paper from Lanvin from 1923. It is an order of some raw materials adressed to a supplier, and handwritten by.... Maria Zède. The adress of the "lab" is 13, rue Castiglione.
A photo of the document will come theese days.

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Paul Poiret: Rosine - Le Minaret (1913)

Le parfum a été créé à l'occasion du spectacle "Le Minaret" de Richepin jouée au Théâtre de la Renaissance, avec les costumes conçus par Erté pour Poiret. C'est le premier parfum enveloppé en tull - dentelle d'or.

Composition orientale fleurie.

" Le Minaret nous transporte au pays des harems. A sentir ce parfum si bien voilé dans son écrin à la turque, on se sent pris de la torpeur des belles sultanes, étendues langoureusement au milieu des coussins sur le large sofa qui appelle les caresses."

Denise Poiret dans la tenue "Minaret".

Costume de scène pour la pièce "Le Minaret".

You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications) and about Rosine perfumes in Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes.

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Paul Poiret: Rosine - Coup de Foudre (1925)

Créé vers 1925, il ne fut lancé qu'en 1931. Après l'Exposition de 1925, Paul Poiret périclita et Les Parfums de Rosine furent rachetés par Les Parfums L. Legrand, une des plus vieilles sociétés de parfums français. Ce fut certainement le dernier parfum auquel fut associé Paul Poiret. Pourtant, il n'est pas sans rappeller le trio des parfums inspiré par les moments de l'amour lancés par Jean Patou dans les années à suivre et composés par le même Alméras.

Le flacon est en verre incolore et transparent, section circulaire, panse conique à décor d'anneaux concentriques superposés. Hauteur: 8.7 cm.

Il rappelle le futur flacon d'Imprudence de Worth réalisé par Lalique.

Parfum Fleuri boisé créée par Henry Alméras.

Composition: jasmin, coumarine-vanilline, ylang, il a quelque chose qui rapelle le No 5, petites proportions d'aldéhyde C12 MNA et C12 laurique, patchouli, Iralia (beaucoup), amyl salycilate (un peu), musc cétone, hydroxcitronellal, un peu de mousse de chêne. On pourrait le considérer un parfum jasmin aldéhydé.

You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications) and about Rosine perfumes in Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes.

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Jean Carles (1892 - 1966)

The man besides Roure fragrances and the author of the famous method of creation.

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Paul Poiret: Rosine - Le Fruit Défendu (1914)

Verre incolore et transparent, panse en forme de fruit, le relief formant des tranches. Capsule en métal argenté dotée d'une petite queue. Étiquette en forme de feuille. Coffret à décor de feuilles de bananiers et de palmiers. Hauteur: 7 cm. Le papier rappelle les décorations intérieures réalisées par l'atelier Martine.

Les fruits étaient un motif décoratif très utilisé par Poiret dans cette période là. En 1916 Paul Iribe et Martine réalisent l'intérieur de la célèbre Mademoiselle Spinelly, où il rendaient hommage à son parfum favori par un décor aux arbres fruitiers. C'était d'ailleurs le thème d'une publicité trompe-l'oeil où l'artiste semblait mordre du fruit.

Parfum Ambré fleuri boisé créé par Henry Alméras.

Composition: C'est peut être le premier parfum à contenir l'aldéhyde C12 Laurique, ici à 0,3%. Vanilline, cannelle, ylang, patchouli, accord prune, lactones (aldéhydes C14 et C18 - peut être la base Persicol), salycilate (iso butyle), note banane - liqueur. La note fruité n'est pas sans rappeler la future base de Laire - Prunol.

You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications) and about Rosine perfumes in Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes.

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Paul Poiret: Rosine - Aladin (1919)

Le parfum fait référence à la passion vouée par Poiret pour la Perse et ses histoires (la Fête Mille et deuxième nuit - juin 1911) mais peut être aussi au premier volume de poésies publié en 1909 par son ami, Jean Cocteau, "La Lampe d'Aladin" lorsqu'il n'avait que 19 ans !

Flacon cristal incolore et transparent ou métal reproduisant la forme d'un très ancien flacon modèle du Moyen-Orient au Moyen Age. Chaque face décorée en relief d'un motif persan. Bouchon laqué à l'imitation d'un vieil os - ivoire. Coffret en tissu, boîte peinte - style miniature persane, graphisme de Mario Simon depeignant Paul Poiret tel "Le pacha de Paris". Chaînette. Hauteur: 7,5 cm.

En 2005 ce flacon a atteint 12 000 euros lors d'une vente aux enchères.

Composition orientale santal-encens-musc, faibles proportions d'aldehyde C12 MNA.

You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications) and about Rosine perfumes in Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes.

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Pavel Ivanov

Student of Auguste Michel, he was the perfumer of Novaya Zarya and author of many Russian fragrances. He was also the teacher of Alla Belfer.

The picture is from PCA, late 60's.

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Guerlain - another frustration

Again, as in the case of Chanel, logistics and communication/marketing don't go together.
While on most fragrance blogs the release of the new Guerlain oils and Iris Ganache was announced... the reality was not far away.
On monday and yesterday I was at Guerlain Champs Elysees store and it seems that they will not receive the fragrances before 20 of april.
Well, frustration + patience.... may be a part of the marketing even at Guerlain. :))

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Etat Libre d'Orange - WISH

One of my wishes for tomorow is that.... I could find open the boutique of Etat Libre d'Orange ! Since a week, I go there almost avery afternoon hoping to smell the fragrances. But the boutique seems always closed. :((((
Meanwhile I enjoy reading the reviews on the net where fragrances seem more available than in real life.

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Chanel formulas notebooks

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Le Labo in Paris - photos

I took some pictures of the fragrance Bar at Colette.

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The bottle that inspired Opium ?

Opium from YSL was a huge succes, a wow fragrance and a perfect design. You will see everywhere the story about the asian inro that inspired the design. But is this the whole story?

Patricia from Mury was a fragrance from the 20's (around 1926). A rare one, not a big success, but with a nice bottle. Look at the shape, the flower and at the details. Do you have the same Opium feeling ?

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When Chanel was everywhere

It was a period when all big or small names in the fragrance business had their No5. Not only the fragrance was a startin point but also the bottle. They advertised in Vogue, l'Officiel and in every fashion magazine.

Look at this bottle from Vogue (50's). Is amazing how similar is to No5. Would it still be possible today to have such a similar design?

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Paul Poiret: La Rose de Rosine (1912)

It is the first fragrance of Paul Poiret. The logo represents a rose designed by Georges Lepape and a symbol used by the fashion house. The stripes remind the Directoire style very fashionable in that period and used by Poiret in his Empire clothes, before he introduced the oriental style into fashion. Poiret used to attach that kind of rose on his Empire dresses.

Bottle - 10, 9 cm.
The fragrance is a Soliflore rose created by Maurice Schaller.
You can find additional information about Paul Poiret in the beautiful album Poiret (Metropolitan Museum of Art Publications) and about Rosine perfumes in Paul Poiret and His Rosine Perfumes.

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Rosine Factory an old picture

I've just discovered a new picture from the Rosine fragrance factory. On the table you can see the bottles of their "La véritable Eau de Cologne de Rosine", handpainted by the girls of Atelier Martine.
An accurate photo of this bottle can be found on the site of the Grasse Museum.

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Paul Poiret - perfumer (2)

New photos on Paul Poiret in his factory. He was very good in marketing and promoting himself but not as good as a business men. Though I didn't see any picture of Coco Chanel in the lab or with her fragrances Poiret seems a very generous subject. The photos I've already published shows how close were fashion and fragrance in that period.

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Rallet in the 20's

After the Russian Revolution Rallet factory "moved back" to France and in 1919 reopened the factory in the Grasse region. During the 20's they produced some fragrances and started to work with fashion designer. An article from Vogue 1925 shows that almost all (!!!) of the fashion houses (most of them unknown today) had fragrances in their portofolio.

Rallet was sold to Coty and dissaperead from the market.

Here are some perfume cards of 2 famous Rallet perfumes from the 20's.

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Ernest Beaux at Rallet

Beaux started to work at Rallet in 1898 in the soap area. From 1902 he starts the study of fragrances with the technical director, M. Lemercier.

One of his first triumphs is said to be "Le Bouquet de Napoleon" in 1912.

From 1914 he is technical director of Rallet and also part of the administration board.

This is an early picture of Ernest Beaux, young perfumer at Rallet.

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