Adieu Sagesse from Jean Patou is a gardenia perfume which explores the other aspect of the flower. It's not the green, crispy, contrasted and sharp gardenia evoked in Gardenia Chanel with a notable amount of styralil acetate, but the soft, milky white petals, sensual like a silk gown. Adieu Sagesse is a skin fragrance, incredible modern, incredible good on skin. It's almost like a musk with a fresh powdery feeling but also with an acidic green touch like a pear sorbet on a hot feminine décolleté.
But Adieu Sagesse has a modern correspondent with contemporary ingredients. It's not a copy but rather a homage to this classic. I have no idea what was the inspiration for D&G feminine but I see it as if Jean Patou perfume had been resuscitated by Dolce&Gabbana magic with their retro vintage and lingerie sexy touch. It showed me that an old scent/idea can become again young and modern with the talent of a gifted perfumer.
Today we might consider some Jean Patou old fragrances smelling old/vintage/ even old fashion. But compared with other perfumes in their time (Chypre, Emeraude, etc) they were the spirit of youth, very modern as was Patou's fashion.
I consider D&G Feminine as a hologram of Adieu Sagesse - a travel through time to understand and imagine what was the smell of youth, how used to smell a modern woman in the 20's.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art