The type of gardenia composition is a modern twist on a classic shape, not so familiar in the late 20 years. Most gardenias were built for decades around a green molecule – styralil acetate (from Chanel to Amarige), then with lactones (like jasmolactone and peach-coconut lactones for the Yves Rocher Gardenia) and with the very expensive mushroom like molecules called tiglates (Tom Ford) when the flower headspace was already known. Every historic period had its own gardenia interpretation and of course its own flower used as a reference (like lilacs or lily of the valley, there are many botanic variations with different smells that general public is not familiar as with the roses).
In the 20’s the other prototype (the first is the green pungent styralil in Chanel) was the milky, creamy, slightly powdery note that was present in Jean Patou’s soliflore. As a main fragrance shape imagine the very rosy (citronellol)-violet (ionones)-muguet note from Nivea cream transposed in a gardenia perfume.
Cruel Gardenia is that kind of flower, but in a modern way. The creamy rose-violet combination is present also in J.Lo Glow, Kenzo Flower and in many luxury creams or lotions (Dove) that were not inspired by J’adore.
After a certain time, the perfume shows a very shy mushroom note present in the natural flower, which is here to remind you its name. (+ other dirty white flower molecules that offer their perversion after several hours).
Almost linear and not contrasted, the perfume reflects 2 stereotypes about what American women like: the white flower and the creamy clean musk (+sandalwood).
It also reflects a modern direction in perfumery and in Guerlain tradition. Is perfume a work of art that wears you or it’s a very pleasant smell like your second skin.
Cruel Gardenia is not the first case. You don’t stare at it like any other classic Guerlain, to admire structure or an original twist. It’s a simple as the most irresistible body scent. Wear it but don’t talk about it.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
