Friday, May 2

Sycomore (2008)

The latest Chanel in their Exclusive line has nothing to do with the old Sycomore. And it’s not because it uses very modern molecules that did not exist 20 years ago, but because it’s different in shape/structure/smell!
With this modern Sycomore I have the feeling that Polge wanted to reinvent vetiver à la Chanel, pure and with no ornament as a Brincusi sculpture or as the little black dress from 1926. Nowadays we have quite a number of modern good vetiver notes from Lutens, Malle, Hermes and the classical Guerlain. If they are reinterpretation, Chanel did the reinvention of vetiver oil and worked as a jeweler sculpting the raw material millimeter by millimeter. Do not expect an original or new twist because there is none. Sycomore is like the little black dress we know all but this time worked in Haute Couture style. Everything that is crude, harsh, brutal, all the character notes in vetiver oil are softened.
There is also the modern grapefruit note, present in all masculine vetiver fragrances, the spicy peppery note, the green vegetable carrot, the dried fruits tobacco note, plus in a very delicate way a shade from other Exclusives (Coromandel + 31) – orris+ jasmine.
If Coromandel & Coco are the baroc side of Chanel, No5 the abstract … Sycomore is the purist steel side like the first box of No5 (the glass bottle in a metal case).
pSYC(h)O MORE !
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