The Living flower technology is a useful tool used today in many perfumes to express the natural odor of a plant. The air captured around a flower in a glass is analyzed through GC-MS and then the scent is reproduced. IFF had some interesting patents on that in 80's-90's and now virtually all companies are able to use the system. But it seems that this idea in perfumery is not new.
In January 1869 (data of the granted british patent) W.Pidding came with a curious invention - a device for obtaining perfume from living plants. He described his apparatus in which living plants were placed in a receiver so that the air became impregnated with their aroma/essential oil / vapor. The air was then exhausted from the receiver and passed into a vessel containing oil, fatty, oleaginous or saponaceous matter. Few weeks later, he issued specifications of improvements including the fitting of a glass cap which was cemented over the top of the tree pot containing the living plant to avoid unpleasant odors.
Today the idea is the same only the tools are modern: inert gas not just air, special gels not fat, and of course the modern machine to analyze the result. But in 1869 this idea was not only innovative for the chemical industry but also for the perfumery still using old methods and products and not yet synthetics.
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
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5 commentaires:
hihi ce ma bucur ca te-am gasit(din intamplare, cautam pareri despre escale a portofino). Mi-a parut ff rau ca ti-ai inchis blogul celalalt. Poate te razgandesti.
Pana atunci te urmaresc aici :)
Ceau!Imi pare si mie rau ca ai inchis blogul Fashion F.As vrea sa te intreb de ce unele EDT si EDP (fara a avea legatura cu concentratia),nu pastreaza in timp nici una dintre note, deci nici cea de baza.
Si cand zic asta, ma refer chiar la 30 de minute. Si bineinteles vorbim de firme de prestigiu.
Am observat la EDT si EDP Anick Goutal care are o buna reputatie in domeniu, ca, dupa o jumatate de ora nu se mai sinte decat 5% si asta ma intristeaza.Si am vazut asta nu numai la mine ci si la o prietena care are un "parfum" diferit dar de la aceeasi firma.
As vrea tare mult sa stiu parerea ta.Este o problema care ma obsedeaza de ceva timp.Nu imi place sa imi reimprospatez parfumul de 5 ori pe zi si nu este chestia ca ma obisnuiesc cu mirosul pentru ca am facut "sondaj de opinie".
Pentru ca parfumul nu este bine construit / echilibrat intre notele de vf-mijloc si fond. Este intr-adevar o problema de armonie si nu una de concentratie. In unele cazuri se spune ca "parfumul nu e fixat" sau ca nu are suficiente note care sa-l tina si nu-l lase sa se evapore. Daca nota caracteristica a parfumului nu este continuata in toate stagiile de evaporare ea va disparea f repede. Un caz tipic e cel al notelor fructate si citrice unde nota caracteristica se formeaza "on top". incearca notele simple de fructe de la Yves Rocher si vei vedea la ce ma refer sau Portofino de la Dior.
Din pacate la problema ta nu exista nici o solutie (decat cea de a umbla la "rotitele" parfumului dar asta e treaba de parfumier).
Multumesc pentru raspuns,de acum stiu care este motivul si sunt mai linistita...
Acum indreaznesc sa te intreb daca EDT "Aimez moi" Caron se fixeaza bine? Atunci cand l-am probat nu mi s-a parut, dar ma gandesc, ca la un laborator cu traditie cum este cel al lor, cand innoiesc un parfum, fac un lucru bun,nu?! Sau exista interesul de al folosi cat mai des si a termina flaconul cat mai repede pt a cumpara altul...
Am testat Portofino si mi-a placut dar mi s-a parut "de vara" si acum se aproprie toamna. Si mai cred ca il vei putea mirosi prea des in oras ca sa te simti bine in pielea ta parfumata :D
nici o problema cu aimez moi, e impecabil!
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