Thoughts on new releases

Bulgari Jasmin Noir is an extremely good perfume, dark, opulent, sophisticated but not heavy. An interpretation of jasmine absolute without its typical animalic note. Instead a soft amber in the dry down plus milky woods that reminded me some facets of Black Orchid and Eau de merveilles. Could it be a modern interpretation of Cuir de Russie Chanel with its tones of jasmin? Anyway, this very good perfume is not like other Bulgari and more in the Chanel spirit (see 31 rue Cambon).
Boucheron B is again another interpretation of the chypre accord from Narcisso Rodriguez, more floral opulent (à la française) and less musky. Not impressively original.
Magnifique is like the modern flanker of Trésor, a good and strong perfume with a subtle trail and long life on the blotter but in a cheap bottle and packaging. It seems to share a raspberry with Haute couture and other many secondary accords with BabyDoll. It's a big rose wrapped in orris-violet with a soft ambery-sandalwood dry down and the whole composition is not so well done. The top is rather curious with a lime-coca cola effect. It's worth noting that one of the molecules used in big amount is Iralia. The official marketing comunication has nothing to do with the real smell (pure invention like in Lancôme creams).

Guerlain Elixirs Charnels
Gourmand coquin is a vanillic perfume with a very interesting top note. Then it's rather burnt than caramelic, is not very sweet and has an amusing Nutella effect
Chypre Fatal is a further work on Narcisso Rodriguez theme as seen in the latest Gucci chypre but here that note is more complex (not musky and sweet) with some facets of late 70's chypre, the sour green almost fruity note (but floral) that was seen in Kelly Calèche and Balkis (here in a very soft interpretation). The dry down is somehow lactonic like the great Gucci Rush.
Oriental brulant is a gorgeous fragrance 100% Guerlain on an ambre 83 theme as it was already seen in Cachet Jaune and GuetApens, more vanilla and less labdanum. The dry down is not so strong (that's a paradox for an oriental) as if it was diluted. I wish to see it in an extrait. Excellent.
Guerlain l'Homme is rather disappointing after all the buzz that was done. It's a formulaic perfume for young French market: citrusy cologne with a slight orange flower note, lavender and its metallic notes, everything softened by some spices. The dry down is woody-ambery (cedar and crystalline amber), very sensual, soft and good.

Givenchy Play comes already in 2 version, the regular (transparent) and Intense (black) and I prefer this one because it has more character. From the first sniff Play is a very good masculine that, despite the image of Justin Timberlake, is not a fresh young & clean Allure Homme Sport theme. Instead is a very good & dark lavender set on woody ambery incensy background. It seems to be an interpretation of Gris Clair theme but in a softer way.
Gaultier MaDame is a very "espiègle" fragrance (I do not the english word) that fits perfectly with the image. It's also very strange and unusual composition that requires from me further investigation (I don't want to say that's very bad).
Kenzo Power was described by a friend of mine as "hot baby vomit" and indeed is a very unusual and strange perfume, quite repulsive on the top, but then very soft, violet heliotrope. I find it original andit also requires further investigation from me.
Infusion d'iris homme - half bottle the feminine + half Prada pour homme without the amber. Add some orris effect on the top and voilà the strange Prada OVNI which brings us the italian soap powdered with textured orris root.