I love violets but I don't like very much violet perfumes - many of them are just ionone alpha perfumes and smell far from a violet bouquet with its green, soft, delicate and cold aroma. Fahrenheit Dior was a big fougère with a green violet top note as was the beautiful and strange Grey Flannel. Yesterday I smelled a true, almost photo realistic violet bouquet, an incredible note created for … men. I had the instant image of Empress Eugenie with her loving violet bouquets. That was He Wood (Dsquared2). The term wood is more a metaphor for this true violet note surrounded with delicate transparent molecules and some other, woody musky. If Fleurs du Male is not so much a floral but a variation with a floral note, this perfume is pure floral for men. A violet bouquet in the violent world of masculine fragrances. It is the opposite of Iris silver mist and they share many molecules but do not smell similar. The Lutens perfume is the metaphor of the root (the orris) while this one is the flower (the violet). With a subtle balance of almost the same ingredients you can obtain the flower, the root, the whole spectrum from earth to sky. He Wood is the the image of living small flowers growing under an old tree - the methapor of delicate innocence in the masculine universe.The feminine version has a pink color and no interest.
Molecules to smell with - Violettyne MIP (Firmenich) and Dihydro beta ionone (Givaudan).
Photo - Viola odorata, Lindman
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
