Except Me Myself and I, the entire range is built on accords / ideas that already exist in several major launches, but each time a note or an unusual ingredient is overdosed to suggest a niche, uncommon appeal. This is usually revealed after 48 hours on the dry downs. It's not something to blame, this is not Frédéric Malle nor Serge Lutens. This is not the "elite" - but good, unusual notes for a wider audience. Maybe that's why the perfumes are not "polychromatic" in terms of accords, but rather bipolar (2-3 ideas, contrasts, easy to recognize and remember, unlike l'Artisan where almost the entire spectrum of shades is used to express a single idea).
Me Myself and I (Jean and Aurélien Guichard)
The fragrance created by Guichard father and son is by far the best of the line and the best fragrance since a long period. It is both original and well crafted, a rare quality today. The perfume is not the simple addition of tuberose and vetiver. Au contraire, it's the perfect match of 2 contradictory ideas - the soft, creamy and opulent flower plus the dry, smoky, oily wood. It is like a massive block of liquid marble invading the space. It is a perfume with no start and no end. After 2 days it has not "decomposed" into fragments but retained the same character as if Jean Carles was there to dictate the precise order of ingredients. More, you do not smell or identify tuberose, neither vetiver. They are perfectly locked. When I smell tuberose absolute, vetiver Java essence and ylang-ylang extra essence, there is something in common - a sharp note, pungent and violent. Something almost metallic like in saffron. It is around this analogy that the perfume is built. The vetiver inside seems either a special distillation or an accord with unusual molecules and some creamy sandalwood notes. It smells perfect and requires further investigation from me. Very creative, daring and unexpected.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art