Thursday, February 5

New fragrances in 2009: Thoughts on perfumes & some short reviews

Une goutte de nuage (Issey Miyake) Extremely beautiful concept and design for the latest flanker of Eau d'Issey. Unfortunately it appeared too late on the market. It's a beautiful metaphor for the idea of clean and cotton but it smells like all the fragrances that copied Eau d'Issey for a decade. The peony inside and the musk with a delicate woody note is also a fragment from Pleasures while the green rose is an attenuated version of the latest success from Chloé. The perfume is zero creation but it smells very good, pleasant, is very well built, with a style that is very Olivia Giacobetti (YUNX).
C'est la Vie Patchouli (Christian Lacroix) Take Borneo (Serge Lutens) and mix it with Black Orchid (Tom Ford) minus the orchid. You'll have this little monster that starts well and ends in a perfect confusion of woody notes.
Evody
Evody is a very nice niche shop located on Rive Gauche and last year they released several fragrances. I found them at Galleries Lafayette during my weekly shopping session.
Fleur d'oranger - a generic orange flower fragrance with no particular twist except the obvious Schiff Bases inside. If you like this type of note try l'Artisan because it's better.
Pomme d'Or - this would be the golden apple but it smells more like "Eau d'Hadrien Hyper Intense" with an overdose of citral and a green note on top. Or like several generic "green citrus jasmine" bases from H&R in the late 70's.
Rêve d'Anthala - this is a nasty tiaré flower that died of caramel overdose. It was constructed with no notion of balance, with benzyl acetate overdosed on the top of a sun tan tiaré lotion formula that smells very basic.
Ambre Intense - very nice amber patchouli fragrance (close to Borneo), not sweet or syrupy, but dry and woody.
Bois rare - very nice woody-amber spicy masculine, in the spirit of Héritage. It's like the drydown of many masculines of the previous decade minus the metallic dihydromircenol.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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