Thanks to IFRA 43 XXth century perfumery will become history. Several (great) perfumes still on the market will become ghosts. They will disappear or will be so much changed that nothing of their soul will be kept. If they will still be for a while on the market, it will not take too much to be abandoned by the consumers. It happened decades ago when other great perfumes changed their quality and became drugstore products (Emeraude, Tabu, etc). I will try to make a list of fragrances that will not be the same anymore. Even if some of them are already reformulated what will happen next is an imminent death.
Joy (Jean Patou) extract - there is too much jasmine absolute for IFRA 43. Joy, a treasure of French perfumery cannot be produced under the new rules. With the disappearance of JOY the House of Jean Patou, already in bad hands (Procter & Gamble) will simply disappear in less than 5 years.
Chanel No 5 extract - the most famous perfume in the world is already NOT the formula created by Ernest Beaux in 1921. But now, the amount of jasmine absolute and oakmoss from the modern extract formula (plus other 2 molecules) will represent the end of Chanel No 5 legend.
Guerlain - Forget Mitsouko. With the new restriction on oakmoss, this perfume cannot be produced. Also, there will be no more classic Jacques Guerlain to be revived by the house. There is none of pre WWII formulas that can exist with both IFRA 43 and LVMH rules. From musks to floral absolutes and oak moss, and even the humble verbena water, there will be no relation between what was Guerlain and what it can be. Only the names and the general fragrance idea can be sold to the public. Problematic perfumes are Après l'ondée extract, Nahéma (the rose ketones), Vega & Liu, Vol de Nuit (for the chypre note) etc.
Nina Ricci - L'Air du Temps extract - already a reformulation this will disappear because the main accord is toxic according to IFRA. The balance between eugenol-isoeugenol-salicylate and hidroxycitronellal is the theme of the perfume. You alter it, you kill everything.
Caron - This house was already affected by IFRA but with IFRA 43 Caron cannot survive. IFRA 43 is the death sentence for Caron. Send Poivre to Bruxelles, it will kill all the bureaucracy. I do not know any classic Caron, with their huge spicy notes and strong natural rose - jasmine absolutes, that could be sold as an extract. In 2010 nobody will be able to produce a Caron extract with the given data about eugenol/isoeugenol/oakmoss/jasmine absolute. The disappearance of Caron (already with a bad management/marketing) is a certitude now.
Rochas has been relaunched recently but it will be a failure under current regulation. Femme, their most famous perfume cannot be produced. Oak moss problem. A similar case is Madame Rochas, already reformulated 2 or 3 times for other reasons.
Bandit - Robert Piguet. The mossy base of this masterpiece where IBQ is surrounded by a beautiful jasmine note is subject to oakmoss death sentence.
Ysatis
- Givenchy - tree moss problem
Chanel pour Monsieur
- (the classic, not the concentré version) too chypre for IFRA
Eau Sauvage
(Christian Dior) - the original Roudnitska's perfume is too chypre (Miss Dior is already dead like several other classic Dior).
Youth Dew
(Estée Lauder) - the amount of spicy notes plus the oakmoss are problematic inside this great creation. In a similar situation is Opium (YSL). Opium for Men has already been changed because of the spices.
Bruxelles has succeeded to put an end to the classic French perfumery and to XXth century great creations. It is also an end to the perfume extract! Some perfumes will exist only as an EDT (with altered formula) but the noble form of a perfume with high amounts of absolutes (mostly jasmine) is "too risky". The french jasmine absolute used to be a national symbol for the high quality of parisian perfumery. France has lost the battle many years ago because of the prices. Now IFRA death sentence is not only about chypre perfumes (oakmoss) but also about jasmine. A symbol of quality for several centuries arrived to the end. A great and shameful defeat for France that was not able to protect its heritage, nor to built a XXth perfumery museum in Paris.
To be continued with other endangered fragrances
Joy (Jean Patou) extract - there is too much jasmine absolute for IFRA 43. Joy, a treasure of French perfumery cannot be produced under the new rules. With the disappearance of JOY the House of Jean Patou, already in bad hands (Procter & Gamble) will simply disappear in less than 5 years.
Chanel No 5 extract - the most famous perfume in the world is already NOT the formula created by Ernest Beaux in 1921. But now, the amount of jasmine absolute and oakmoss from the modern extract formula (plus other 2 molecules) will represent the end of Chanel No 5 legend.
Guerlain - Forget Mitsouko. With the new restriction on oakmoss, this perfume cannot be produced. Also, there will be no more classic Jacques Guerlain to be revived by the house. There is none of pre WWII formulas that can exist with both IFRA 43 and LVMH rules. From musks to floral absolutes and oak moss, and even the humble verbena water, there will be no relation between what was Guerlain and what it can be. Only the names and the general fragrance idea can be sold to the public. Problematic perfumes are Après l'ondée extract, Nahéma (the rose ketones), Vega & Liu, Vol de Nuit (for the chypre note) etc.
Nina Ricci - L'Air du Temps extract - already a reformulation this will disappear because the main accord is toxic according to IFRA. The balance between eugenol-isoeugenol-salicylate and hidroxycitronellal is the theme of the perfume. You alter it, you kill everything.
Caron - This house was already affected by IFRA but with IFRA 43 Caron cannot survive. IFRA 43 is the death sentence for Caron. Send Poivre to Bruxelles, it will kill all the bureaucracy. I do not know any classic Caron, with their huge spicy notes and strong natural rose - jasmine absolutes, that could be sold as an extract. In 2010 nobody will be able to produce a Caron extract with the given data about eugenol/isoeugenol/oakmoss/jasmine absolute. The disappearance of Caron (already with a bad management/marketing) is a certitude now.
Rochas has been relaunched recently but it will be a failure under current regulation. Femme, their most famous perfume cannot be produced. Oak moss problem. A similar case is Madame Rochas, already reformulated 2 or 3 times for other reasons.
Bandit - Robert Piguet. The mossy base of this masterpiece where IBQ is surrounded by a beautiful jasmine note is subject to oakmoss death sentence.
Ysatis
- Givenchy - tree moss problemChanel pour Monsieur
- (the classic, not the concentré version) too chypre for IFRAEau Sauvage
(Christian Dior) - the original Roudnitska's perfume is too chypre (Miss Dior is already dead like several other classic Dior).Youth Dew
(Estée Lauder) - the amount of spicy notes plus the oakmoss are problematic inside this great creation. In a similar situation is Opium (YSL). Opium for Men has already been changed because of the spices.Bruxelles has succeeded to put an end to the classic French perfumery and to XXth century great creations. It is also an end to the perfume extract! Some perfumes will exist only as an EDT (with altered formula) but the noble form of a perfume with high amounts of absolutes (mostly jasmine) is "too risky". The french jasmine absolute used to be a national symbol for the high quality of parisian perfumery. France has lost the battle many years ago because of the prices. Now IFRA death sentence is not only about chypre perfumes (oakmoss) but also about jasmine. A symbol of quality for several centuries arrived to the end. A great and shameful defeat for France that was not able to protect its heritage, nor to built a XXth perfumery museum in Paris.
To be continued with other endangered fragrances
Photo - "Le Radeau de la Méduse", Gericault
Update: Read also Perfumery Restrictions on Perfumeshrine
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
