"N'aimez que moi" whispered the souvenir while the dust of time became rose ashes. I was listening to Mozart Le Nozze di Figaro, "Voi che sapete / Che cosa è amor / Donne vedete / S'io l'ho nel cor " when I saw GQ Russia (picture). Inside, a very beautiful fashion editorial with romantic roses and shades of pink and gray like the postcards from WWI covered with Caron powder. But also the same magical pink very "Jardins de Bagatelle" with their splendid collection of roses, or the pink costume worn by Nijinsky in Le Spectre de la Rose.Roses have been for almost 150 years the heart of the masculine fragrances. Geranium, rose oil, geraniol, rose ketones and rose oxide, but they are always between the woody/ambery/sweet drydown and the fresh/citrus/aromatic top note. From Fougère Royale to Cool Water and Ambre Sultan, masculine fragrance are full of all kind of roses. The "rose" was hidden but now, at least with the new Geranium from Frédéric Malle the rosy note starts to bloom in all her majestic appearance. In fashion, red and strong pink are in a strong comeback, with force. That's the French cavalry with their red pants and moustache! And of course "le chevalier à la rose".
Last summer the SFP organized several conferences around the rose idea but only this year I changed my view on this flower. I feel it as important masculine note, more flexible than the orange flower.
Here you have some masculine ideas, already in perfumes, but not pushed to the limits :): Geranium - saffron - karanal / Rose - oceanic - salty - incense / Rose - grapefruit - leather / rooty rose - nutmeg - smoky patchouli / masculine litchi and dark chocolate .
(to be continued)
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
