Some perfumes were directly inspired by books or by plays that were famous in old days and now completely forgotten. In several cases those vintage perfumes named after a specific reference would take us into those glorious days. At the beginning of the century the number of theaters was huge in Paris. No surprise to find many perfumes in exquisite bottles named after the successes of the day. Thanks to perfumes we can back and rediscover books or authors. Here you have a list from my book with some of the cross references between fragrance and literature /plays.
La Vierge Folle - Gabilla (~1911) - play by Henri Bataille (1910)
Le Bois Sacré - Gueldy (1911) - play by Gaston Arman de Caillavet & Robert de Flers (1910)
Une Femme Passa - Plassard (1910) - play by Romain Coolus (1910)
La Phalène - d'Héraud (1919) - play by Henry Bataille (1913)
Le Minaret - Rosine / Paul Poiret (1913) - play by Jean Richepin (1913) (the couturier made the costumes)
Pour Etre Aimée - Gellé Frères (~1913) - play by M. Xanrof & Michel Carré (1901)
La route d'Emeraude - Isabey (1924) - play by Jean Richepin (1909)
Kismet - Lubin (~1921) - play by Edward Knoblauch (1913)
Nuit persane - Rosine / Paul Poiret (1911) - play by J.L.Vaudoyer (1911) (the author and the couturier were good friends)
Grégoria - Rigaud (1910) - play by Henri Falk (1910)
Amour en cage - Cadolle (1926) - play by André de Lorde & Jean Marsèle (1911) (but also reference to the corset)
Le vertige - Rallet (~1902) - play by Michel Provins (1901)
Minne - Gabilla (1912) - play by Colette and her husband Willy (1905) (there is no doubt between the choice of the name and the play, Gabilla and Colette were good friends and there is also Mon Cheri, a perfume with a close name to the character).
Blue Lagoon - Dubarry (1919) - novel by Harry de Vere Stacpoole
"Le parfum de la dame en Noir" written by Gaston Leroux and published (serial) in Illustration starting with 26.09.1908 became a perfume created by Lenthéric and launched for Christmas 1908. Now the book is still available on Amazon but the fragrance is a rare vintage jewel.
Edmond Rostand called Bichara "the poet of perfume" and the muse of this sirian perfumer in Paris was no other than the great Sarah Bernhardt.
Many times, writers worked with perfumers and wrote pamphlets and texts. The most famous is maybe Boutet de Monvel who wrote many texts for the fragrances of Paul Poiret / Rosine. Much later, Jean Cocteau made the graphics and poem for Arôme 3 (d'Orsay) around 1942.
One of the most astonishing collaboration between a writer and a perfume maker happened in Italy. Gabriele D’Annunzio was friend with the founder of the house Giviemme, count Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone. Some vintage creations include Contessa Azzurra, Dimmi di sì, Subdola, Nina Sorridi, Assalto (all before 1925).
The perfumes of Giviemme produced by Carlo Erba were rather special in Italy. The names were inspired by d'Annunzio in a time when he was very popular in Italy (and even more after WWI). Subdola was a special fragrance created before WWI and represented the ideal of the new woman. Unlike today, the perfumes were produced in a small quantity and the public was more the elite. One perfume called Acqua di Fiume, cologne type with citrus and ambery notes, was dedicated to him (the event in WWI) and later became his favorite cologne.
In Italy, d'Annunzio was also responsible for the name of another line called "I Profumi del Carnaro" (from the 1920's event) produced by L.E.P.I.T. Bologna (until WWII) and the motto "Cum lenitate asperitas". Here you have several names from this line: L'ardore del carso, L'Halala, La Brezza del Carnaro, Il Lauro di Laurana, Fiumanella. (there is even a letter handwritten by d'Annunzio with the names of the perfumes). All those beautiful Italian creations had magnificent bottles and advertising but today very little is known about the scent.
La Vierge Folle - Gabilla (~1911) - play by Henri Bataille (1910)
Le Bois Sacré - Gueldy (1911) - play by Gaston Arman de Caillavet & Robert de Flers (1910)
Une Femme Passa - Plassard (1910) - play by Romain Coolus (1910)
La Phalène - d'Héraud (1919) - play by Henry Bataille (1913)
Le Minaret - Rosine / Paul Poiret (1913) - play by Jean Richepin (1913) (the couturier made the costumes)
Pour Etre Aimée - Gellé Frères (~1913) - play by M. Xanrof & Michel Carré (1901)
La route d'Emeraude - Isabey (1924) - play by Jean Richepin (1909)
Kismet - Lubin (~1921) - play by Edward Knoblauch (1913)
Nuit persane - Rosine / Paul Poiret (1911) - play by J.L.Vaudoyer (1911) (the author and the couturier were good friends)
Grégoria - Rigaud (1910) - play by Henri Falk (1910)
Amour en cage - Cadolle (1926) - play by André de Lorde & Jean Marsèle (1911) (but also reference to the corset)
Le vertige - Rallet (~1902) - play by Michel Provins (1901)
Minne - Gabilla (1912) - play by Colette and her husband Willy (1905) (there is no doubt between the choice of the name and the play, Gabilla and Colette were good friends and there is also Mon Cheri, a perfume with a close name to the character).
Blue Lagoon - Dubarry (1919) - novel by Harry de Vere Stacpoole
"Le parfum de la dame en Noir" written by Gaston Leroux and published (serial) in Illustration starting with 26.09.1908 became a perfume created by Lenthéric and launched for Christmas 1908. Now the book is still available on Amazon but the fragrance is a rare vintage jewel.
Edmond Rostand called Bichara "the poet of perfume" and the muse of this sirian perfumer in Paris was no other than the great Sarah Bernhardt.
Many times, writers worked with perfumers and wrote pamphlets and texts. The most famous is maybe Boutet de Monvel who wrote many texts for the fragrances of Paul Poiret / Rosine. Much later, Jean Cocteau made the graphics and poem for Arôme 3 (d'Orsay) around 1942.
One of the most astonishing collaboration between a writer and a perfume maker happened in Italy. Gabriele D’Annunzio was friend with the founder of the house Giviemme, count Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone. Some vintage creations include Contessa Azzurra, Dimmi di sì, Subdola, Nina Sorridi, Assalto (all before 1925).
The perfumes of Giviemme produced by Carlo Erba were rather special in Italy. The names were inspired by d'Annunzio in a time when he was very popular in Italy (and even more after WWI). Subdola was a special fragrance created before WWI and represented the ideal of the new woman. Unlike today, the perfumes were produced in a small quantity and the public was more the elite. One perfume called Acqua di Fiume, cologne type with citrus and ambery notes, was dedicated to him (the event in WWI) and later became his favorite cologne.
In Italy, d'Annunzio was also responsible for the name of another line called "I Profumi del Carnaro" (from the 1920's event) produced by L.E.P.I.T. Bologna (until WWII) and the motto "Cum lenitate asperitas". Here you have several names from this line: L'ardore del carso, L'Halala, La Brezza del Carnaro, Il Lauro di Laurana, Fiumanella. (there is even a letter handwritten by d'Annunzio with the names of the perfumes). All those beautiful Italian creations had magnificent bottles and advertising but today very little is known about the scent.
In the photo: Mon Chéri - Gabilla perfume in Baccarat bottle (c.1913) - a fragrance to scent the movie Cheri.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
