After the first Chloé that was a rose detergent scent that confirmed once again that bad perfumes can be a great commercial success in a world where taste is just another relative notion, Chloé revised everything and came with a great interpretation this fall. Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense is not just a stronger version of the first idea (a fresh rose) but a perfume with style, rich, opulent in its freshness and above all in a pure classical shape (with modern accents).The first impression was of a huge rose bouquet in a French garden, the most scented and the most adorable. Not just fresh, but majestic from the very first drop of dew. It offers a particular note found in the Bulgarian rose and for several seconds I thought that the overture was the hologram of the classic Bulgarian rose oil - not just the natural but the small vials sold in Bulgaria (they were rather compositions as I described them last month). My impression was not wrong because this effect continued and the rose emerged in a pure classical shape. The type of rose accord used here is known for about 100 years but the perfumers adapted the idea to the contemporary palette and added also some pink pepper on top. When the fresh rose started not to fade, but to reveal other flowers and notes in its concerto, what was under my nose unwrapped its mysteries. While Essence (Narciso Rodriguez) has a floral aldehyde rose in the most modern way, Chloé Eau de Parfum is the same idea but in the purest French style. Read the glorious era of Calèche, Madame Rochas and Calandre plus those beautiful Nina Ricci examples. Of course, the new perfume has lost all heavy elements, all drydown decadent notes, all the small decorations. Fresh rose plus lily of the valley and some jasmine represents the main idea. Other examples of this style include Cléa and En avril un soir (Yves Rocher) but also the very old Elegance (Avon). Also this idea has been recently reinterpreted in one perfume from 6 Scents (The Symrise artistic project). The drydown has all the notes of a classic perfume with an accent on the sweet sandalwood and some soft sweet notes to provide an oriental side (not obvious). It smells 100% feminine because for many decades this type of perfume was synonim with La Femme (when she did not use No5). But unlike those classics, Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense has not enough flesh. "I'm not a girl, not yet a woman".
Though modern, this perfume if successful will rise up again the debate - does my perfume feel outdated? Technically, it is the old lady floral aldehyde perfume and worse, it is also rose, to contradict all marketing theories on preferences. But I'm sure young girls will adopt it without knowing what are the secrets and this is good news.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
