Tuesday, August 25

Prada L'Eau Ambrée (2009) new fragrance review

Have you ever dreamed of the scent of true ambergris tincture and the scent of the seashore? Here you have the latest Prada L'Eau Ambrée perfume that is for the next decade what Dune (Dior) was for the 90's. A reinvention of the oriental note far from any sweet connotation. 80's had Must de Cartier, we had dozens of sweet oriental patchouli versions. The Amber is in the Air. It is the feeling of an Oriental mood that floats in the air like a breeze from an island where the rivers are full with Eau de Merveilles. Prada L'Eau Ambrée does all that and I was seduced in the first 3 seconds. It is also a pure Prada Scent because it contains that special accord (I call it the Prada quintessence of clean) that Daniela Andrier has put in every single creation of the house. The scent of wool, cashmere and expensive bags. L'Eau Ambrée is an excellent synthesis of the freshness found in the Infusions (I'm not a big fan of those perfumes) and the first Amber perfume of the brand. The word flanker would not be correct for Prada L'Eau Ambrée though from a technical point of view it is a variation around a theme.
It does not explore the sweetness of the amber but it is an exercise of bitterness and those herbal-tobacco-woody notes that can be traced in the true amber tincture. I would also add that this is not a work on ambroxan but one on molecules with very deep dark notes like Grisambrol/Ambrinol. On the very first moment the oriental woody theme set into a fresh context reminded me another good perfume Flower Oriental but, if Kenzo is rather baroque, Prada sets the idea in a pure abstract place designed by Rem Koolhas. The only true reference of the perfume is Prada herself and this is great because at least someone is not copying the others. The top note with mandarin and cypress is both fresh and very aromatic with that phenolic bitterness as found in the most beautiful thyme oil. The floral heart is precious and very delicate with rose absolute and gardenia absolute (jasminoides) and their role is to provide richness in the airy context. After several hours a small vanilla note and other balms can be detected but they are well blended and do not show their individual presence. During the first moment the blotter is not revealing very much. The scent seems delicate, evanescent and almost imprecise. It is only after several hours that you realize the marvel inside the comfort perfume. Prada L'Eau Ambrée becomes more diffusing with time, more intense but not heavy at all while offering a resumé of previous Prada perfumes.
But the most surprising effect is on the skin. After several hours I forgot I have tested the perfume when suddenly I found my self mesmerized by a divine scent floating around me. And I'm not easy to be seduced by a fragrance. It doesn't smell perfume, it smells like a human presence and I believe it leaves a great trail. The perfume surrounds you with a special veil though on the blotter it might not reveal a lot. I love very much the musk note inside, very soft velvety and airy-cotton like and I believe it comes from Cosmone or a similar new musk molecule from Givaudan. Does Prada L'Eau Ambrée contain also one of the latest Givaudan captive molecule with its dry and diffusing soft ambery notes?
It is a perfume of sensual texture without contrasts and classic shape, more like a morphing architecture for the future with the pure Prada stamp.
The heavy amber becomes mollecular amber and this Big Bang sends its waves in the space surrounding you with an alien beauty and the Prada logo.
Prada L'Eau Ambrée has its own style, far from Serge Lutens or Jean Claude Ellena and now you can say there is a Prada type of scent as the aldehydes were the Chanel trademark in the 20's and 30's.
Official main ingredients of Prada Eau L'Ambrée: mandarine, lemon, May rose, gardenia jasminoides, patchouli, oppoponax, vanilla, modern amber.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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