Monday, October 26

Calamity J., Juliet Has a Gun (2009) - new fragrance review


With Calamity J, Juliet has Gun writes a very curious page in the universe of modern creations. This is the opposite of their creations, most were more Juliet than the gun, composed around rich floral-rose notes (from the softest to the deep oud undertone). The new creation reveals the "gun", the masculine side of the seductress, the interpretation of the bullet, like the design of their new vapo. Calamity J. takes the codes of the masculine fragrances (the deep woods combined with dry ambery notes) and transforms them in a feminine cashmere wrap scented with dried patchouli leaves. The rose is no more the glorious bouquet but a skin tattoo. The central note of the perfume is a deep woody-ambery blend with a great amount of Ambroxan. It is ambery but not oriental, not warm, sensual or seductive. It is the dry side of gray amber, the tobacco note often found in combination with leather. Imagine an old leather jacket with dust and smoke (like those worn in Far West movies) hiding a divine body with the softest skin on earth, covered with just a small rose tattoo.
The inspiration is Calamity Jane, the first cowboy - woman (1853 - 1903) who drank and spoke like a man. Romano Ricci used the words « cataclysm, disaster, catastrophe, tragedy » something very unusual for the feminine creations. Aromatic herbs with a camphor sparkle, lavender, patchouli, cedar and dry woods mixed with orris (methyl ionone) evoke the fire and the mineral universe. The strong woody base reminds me the effect (and not the scent) of Dune and Samsara. But Calamity J. is a scent from a desert, an oriental in austerity with a very light sweet vanilla-tonka (coumarine)-cocoa note for a rum and whiskey effect. Between the aromatic effect of a classic fougère worn by a woman, the sensual sweet scent of her skin, the dry tobacco she smokes and the pure malt she drinks, the perfume recreates the image of a fighter. But unlike Bandit, another great example of reversed codes, Calamity J. is not so revolutionary and daring. This woman provokes but she wears the finest cashmere under the Prada jacket.
The fragrance has common facets with Attache Moi - IconoFly (another ambery scent), Boisé torride, Prada l'eau ambrée, Voile d'Ambre (Yves Rocher) and the ambery scent from Histoires de Parfum but also the soft tobacco-vanilla effect from the latest l'Artisan Parfumeur (but not gourmand at all). It is the opposite of the opulence found in Tom Ford perfumes.
A new interpretation of the Ambre 83 note, this time more abstract, dry and masculine like a real havana smoked with insolence and fronted by Lou Douillon. Musk-patchouli-ambroxan stolen from a masculine cologne.
The perfume is now available at Colette.
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