This year at the SFP, Firmenich presented a conference describing their 50 years of research on grey amber and the development of new molecules (the history of ambrox, cetalox, ambrinol, Fixateur 404, etc since the late 30's). The new perfume from Dior could be considered a beautiful metaphor of this scientific research and also a modern interpretation of the ambery family in a pure classic Dior style. It is one of the deepest ambery fragrances that evokes the scent of the natural grey amber with its tobacco, soft leather and dry woods shades. The precursors of this scent could be Eau de Merveilles, Ambre Narguillé, French Lover, but Cologne Ambre Nuit offers a contemporary interpretation of the nonsweet amber with a salty grapefruit top. There are no contrasts during the deep night and this idea was transposed to the composition - the notes are blended ad infinitum, no contrast, no noise, no excessive diffusion. It is a skin scent, not austere but rich and rounded like a plum, hiding a beautiful rose with deep and delicious fruity notes that evoke an oriental dessert. A small rose oud is wrapped in this ambery veil under patchouli leaves, balms, vanilla and very dry woods. The leather note is soft like a suede and has an embroidery with spicy notes (pepper, nutmeg?, cinnamom leaf or laurel?). The drydown is delicious like an exotic honey with almond/cherry notes from a flower that smells like Back to Black and tastes like Si Lolita. A soft lactonic touch with a tea note - osmanthus breeze modifies the warm effect of this salty amber, the opposite of Cologne Blanche.
With Cologne Ambre Nuit the amber molecules are again in overdose for a perfume that comes from another era.
I presented other modern perfumes in the same spirit in the Calamity J (Juliet has a gun) review.
I presented other modern perfumes in the same spirit in the Calamity J (Juliet has a gun) review.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
