It's almost impossible to review them because they are amazing. Knowing very well the originals the new discovery at Sephora was pure emotion. The new versions of Alien and Angel have the depth, quality, richness of classic perfumes. Compared to the originals all asperities have been softened, all contrasts smoothed. What was "daring" became classic. This is not perfume but honey for a Goddess. While the "image" stays the same here we can perceive the difference between a photo and an original painting in a museum. A question of texture and subtle shades. It is not easy to evaluate what the patented maceration technology brings to the perfume. I wish I have smelled the version with and without the process. Now, I can just compare them with the EDP versions on the market. Also, I do not know if we have just a process or a new "improved" formula but what is sure is the high quality and smoothness of the pure perfume. In terms of scent, it is not a variation of the original (I do not detect any particular woody / liqueur / barrel effect) but an improvement in depth. But all these details are not important when the result is so precious.
Angel Liqueur de Parfum is by far the best of this line. The soft "rum" (not actually rum but an effect on the top note) suggests the refinement of classic perfumes with natural tinctures. It is not just gourmand but a pure modern oriental. Compared to the original, it seems more intense, stronger and much rounded (the green contrast is gone). 2 notes makes the great difference - cherry and honey-benzoin - and this new accord reminds me very much the idea found in Back To Black by Kilian. Who was the first on this type of note emphasized in an oriental ? - that's a question to reflect about. The original sweet and caramel notes of the first version of Angel are now the bones of a "new" oriental mixed with the deep texture of the Alien and its cashmeran drydown.
Alien Liqueur de Parfum is more intense and sweet, with the accent on the drydown. All the asperities between the cashmeran and sambac jasmine have been soothed and it seems like a flower with heavy velvety petals from another planet. The top notes (the green and airy side of the sambac jasmine) are gone to heaven leaving only a honeyed balsam that will become a golden amber.
A*Men Pure Malt is the strangest - I do not detect very well the malt note and there is a lot of freshness inside combined with excessive dryness. Unlike the original, the woody notes are emphasized and they turn around a note that reminds me the scent of oak or the wines rich in tannins. Guaiac and maybe some very dry cedar molecules are responsible for a note that is closer to the effect of some malt and less to the scent. Inside the sweet oriental pattern of the original perfume, there is an intense sensation of austerity - an wooden ancient idol surrounded by sweet garlands and ambrosial honey.
With this new collection the roasted notes & purified alcohols suggest a new direction where the smoke and the bitterness replace the sweet caramel.
Angel Liqueur de Parfum, Alien Liqueur de Parfum, A*Men Pure Malt show that high quality products can coexist with commercial distribution.
Did you enjoy my article? Sign up for updates about new fragrances, reviews of artistic perfumes and exceptional vintage masterpieces. I would be very happy if you would consider joining 1000 Fragrances, throughRSS feed,GoogleFriend connect, Facebook (more personal), or any other way that appeals to you.
Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art