Hypenoses - an exquisite line of room candles with very modern, edgy and addictive scents. My favorites were:
Violette opéra (a huge explosive violet like a primadona - this is not the shy flower, nor the metallic cheap ionones - though just a candle it is better than the classic Violette de Berdoues)
24 Caramels - that's caramel for 24 hours, with a sweet addictive note over a milky base. Hyper realistic and better than many caramel fine fragrances.
Chococaine - chocolate and cocoa powder to die for
Masque africaine - precious dry woody notes with an exquisite scent. That's how the african collection of Madame Rubinstein should have smelled in the 20's.
Banana Kiss - banana liquor and flower over an addictive sweet base, nothing to do with the raw isoamyl acetate - this is a savage dance à la Josephine Baker
Pyramide de Jasmin - not exactly jasmine but more a narcissus note for me, with a green leafy top and a narcotic very animalic base (not the jasmine type but the cresol narcissus) - a huge, unusual and strange perfume than could be one day transposed into an original fine fragrance
HypeNoses is about hyper sensations in a hype universe.
Parfums d'Orsay - I knew all the perfumes but the surprise came from the room fragrances, created by Olivia Giacobetti. Pure refinement! The line between the "human perfume" and the "ambient creation" is almost invisible and those simple, delicate and exquisite scents are better than many new launches. Poetry in a drop where cedar, soft heliotropine, translucent musks and linden blossoms clouds are the materials of a new form of spatial haiku.
Isabey Fleur Nocturne - after the lovely Gardenia, this forgotten brand with a glorious (short) past has a great surprise for us. This winter a new creation inspired by a very old creation of the brand. A symphony of flowers and soft powdery sweet notes with a nostalgic delicacy.
Poiray - there is something very special inside
Atelier Flou - a new brand with poetry and some very special perfumes in a pure classic shape, like many perfumes we miss (details and review soon)
Also, I discovered the latest creations from Cartier - Les Heures du Parfum (I will not review them for the moment). They come with something we have rarely found before - a new type of "fragrance writing", a special evolution in time and a creative force rarely seen today. Mathilde Laurent is not just a great perfumer but he opens the door to a new decade in perfumery. Those are perfumes to be carefully smelled and studied to reveal the labyrinth of the perfumer. Details of the notes on graindemusc.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art