Sirocco is one of the most refined and underestimated perfumes launched by Lucien Lelong in the 30's. With this creation, Jean Carles takes us into an intellectual exercise around the oriental theme demonstrating his composition technique. In those years the opopanax bases were sold under different names by almost all RM houses. After Emeraude and Shalimar, Jean Carles creates the last perfume of this style (using similar materials) like a conclusion to an era. The next oriental creations will take advantage of the new molecules and will transform the accord. In Sirocco the theme is reduced to the most important notes like in a brilliant coda, leaving outside the facets. The perfume acts like a purified version of the previous masterpieces - an academic version of the oriental opopanax family. From Emeraude the perfumer takes the aromatic top note and transforms it into a beautiful and strong lavender theme. Lavender, vanilla and amber will give also for several moments the effect of Pour Un Homme (Caron). Being launched almost in the same period, the 2 perfumes are united by a symbolic link. From Shalimar, Jean Carles takes the essence of the oriental ambery note without the strong citrusy bergamot top but also without the burnt birch effect on the drydown (and less castoreum). In Sirocco the vanilla (followed by coumarine) is dominating the patchouli drydown, soft and sensual. In modern terms, Sirocco would be the gourmand variation of that oriental theme.
With this perfume Jean Carles gives almost a literal interpretation of what Sirocco is: a Mediterranean wind that comes from the Sahara, dusty dry and stormy. He combines the mediterranean bouquet based on lavender with the oriental note represented by the sweet opopanax accord (the scent of the precious resins). The perfume is both sweet and dry but not so deep and sensual like Shalimar. We can literally see this perfume as the Shalimar breeze from an oriental tent passing over a field of lavender and other Mediterranean aromatics. It was also something unusual in the era - a name that is a perfect metaphor of the scent, poetic but easy to understand.
The evolution of this perfume is very curious because what you feel is not that the top evaporates unveiling the heart but a general "compression" of the notes as if everything becomes more concentrate around the oriental and ambery sweet note. The floral heart is very small (rose, magnolia, jasmine) and acts like a modifier of the oriental sweetness with benzoin, patchouli, vanilla, soft incense and amber.
The perfume has an incredible power and even the cologne version has an amazing strength and tenacity. That was Jean Carles, building his perfumes on numbers, always surprising with his technique and his forgotten creations, 80% unknown to the public (and even to perfumers).
You can read the story of Lucien Lelong the fashion couturier in a recent book with sublime fashion images Lucien LelongWith this perfume Jean Carles gives almost a literal interpretation of what Sirocco is: a Mediterranean wind that comes from the Sahara, dusty dry and stormy. He combines the mediterranean bouquet based on lavender with the oriental note represented by the sweet opopanax accord (the scent of the precious resins). The perfume is both sweet and dry but not so deep and sensual like Shalimar. We can literally see this perfume as the Shalimar breeze from an oriental tent passing over a field of lavender and other Mediterranean aromatics. It was also something unusual in the era - a name that is a perfect metaphor of the scent, poetic but easy to understand.
The evolution of this perfume is very curious because what you feel is not that the top evaporates unveiling the heart but a general "compression" of the notes as if everything becomes more concentrate around the oriental and ambery sweet note. The floral heart is very small (rose, magnolia, jasmine) and acts like a modifier of the oriental sweetness with benzoin, patchouli, vanilla, soft incense and amber.
The perfume has an incredible power and even the cologne version has an amazing strength and tenacity. That was Jean Carles, building his perfumes on numbers, always surprising with his technique and his forgotten creations, 80% unknown to the public (and even to perfumers).
. Some of his perfumes with their exquisite bottles are featured also in this auction catalogue Memories of Perfume: The Perfumes of Lucien Lelong and Masterpieces of Today
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
