Monday, December 28

The BIG dilemma of BIO cosmetics

France is a land of ideology and marketing. When big brands started to produce cosmetic creams, not just bio but also with anti-age claims, a problem appeared. At least this is a problem to my nose. Because they do not use very good preservatives (they cannot under the very tough labels) quite often the oils or fats in creams go slightly rancid. I detect this because the rancidity of an oil has a specific scent (a characteristic unpleasant odor given by molecules with low threshold), though this is not often a big safety problem. Here, I have a big dilemma. Those French brands claim now anti age properties and make a big noise about natural antioxidants. The oxidation of fats/oils/free fatty acids occurs primarily with unsaturated fats by free radical mediated processes. The base of the cream produces the free radicals she is meant to fight. And when you can detect a light rancidification you can be sure the cream is full of free radicals, much more than you will find on your skin.
Unfortunately many French cosmetics driven by insane marketing are just a fraud. When you use polyphenols (from wine), vitamin E and many naturals with exotic properties but you cannot control the free radicals of your own cosmetic base what you sell on the market has little cosmetic activity and the effects are not positive.
You can imagine that I write this because I have in front of me some samples that surprised my nose.
My advice: always trust your nose when you buy cosmetics advertised with no preservatives and other very useful ingredients!


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Saturday, December 26

The perfume of russian roses

Today you can find roses almost everywhere but little is used today in fragrances where the synthetic version replaced the beautiful natural essence (the absolute is hard to use because of IFRA). More than 50 years ago may rose and bulgarian rose were the famous roses used in all great perfumes. But another less known type was the rose from Crimea used in soviet perfumes among other naturals less known/used in western perfumery.

ROSE PLANTATIONS



In this rare soviet footage from 1957 you can see the harvest and extraction of the rose in Crimea and in the end several examples of soviet perfumes and colognes.

Footage from 1939 - Rose plantations in Crimea

The most known is Kremlin (Novaya Zarya). The next picture shows a selection of russian fragrances also from the 50's with their typical design.
Another beautiful footage shows the Rose Festival in Bulgaria in 1965, the extraction of roses and other images so characteristic for eastern Europe.

BULGARIAN ROSES




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Rare Coty perfume movie

This footage from Pathe Archive is from a promotional movie made for Coty right after the WWII. It was a time when Coty got stronger and stronger in USA and invested a lot in great advertising campaigns, packaging design and line extension.
The movie from 1948 has no explicit mention about Coty but I identified the bottles and the perfumer. Vincent Roubert shows here something that was highly secret in those days. The making of a perfume, the raw materials and all the hidden stories behind the beautiful bottles was something forbidden to the public in the secretive universe of fragrances. We can see here how a perfume was compounded inside the fragrance house, something that changed today for most of the brands (the concentrates are delivered by IFF, Firmenich, Givaudan, etc). The perfumer Vincent Roubert presents a huge piece of ambergris, another forgotten ingredient but often found in classic masterpieces.
The perfume showed in the end is Muse, launched by Coty in 1946. This is a very special creation with a delicious fruity note (over a woody leather base) and I will review it one day.

PERFUME MAKING



Another footage from the 20's presents how the perfume was produced - from extraction to distribution, ending with a "Perfume Parade"

POINTS ON PERFUMES




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Saturday, December 19

Sarah Jessica Parker – the new vampire of fragrances

Very soon Sarah Jessica Parker will release a new fragrance with the name Twilight (you can see a variation in the Lovely Collection). But the dowager of shopping bags that invented a new genre in the industry (a movie that is just a catalogue of brands) said something surprising on MTV.
“The "Sex and the City" star insists that the she wasn't trying to cash in on all the hoopla surrounding the "Twilight Saga" with the coincidental name.
"Those books are for younger readers, right?" she asked MTV News while promoting "Did You Hear About the Morgans?" "I have not read any. I feel like I will save those the way I save 'Harry Potter.' So when James Wilkie is ready to read 'Twilight,' then I'll jump in with him, or when Loretta and Tabitha are ready to read them."

Of course, it has nothing to do .... but should I believe the book of Chandler Burr where she is presented like a creator? No other celebrity girl from the plethora of Coty & Arden candy box has ever had the chance to be portrayed in a book as a true creator.
But now, after all those years we understand who is the real vampire and it’s not the full moon but the “$” symbol that does the difference and makes a Star shine.
The first fans of the lady fashionista might have discovered other new fragrances since the first Sex and the City, but the younger audience could be attracted by the new name in the very noisy universe of drugstore colognes now sold as perfumes. I doubt that fruity, clean and a name like Twilight are just coincidences in marketing depts. SJP will be sold worldwide and a young generation with less money, in other countries than France or USA, will be the “victims”.
When I first read A perfect Scent I did believe that SJP was a nice girl. Now it appears that she is not different than any other greedy celebrity and the perfumes are just money machines, launched one after another and inspired always by other fragrances, more creative.
In the end, that’s the essence of a vampire - not to create but to drain the life out of others. By this coincidence, SJP reveals herself as the last symbol of a decade where the art of fragrances was shadowed by the celebrity flood.

If you look at the ad of SJP NYC you will notice that Sarah Jessica Parker was inspired by Bond No9 - the color scheme and the typos/logo, though the shape of the bottle is different. Her Lovely collection (where you can already see a Twilight musky clean fragrance in 2009) is very Avon-esque, after the idea was used more than 5 years ago by Estee Lauder. In the ad, SJP seems to advertise Pleasures (Estee Lauder) and not her fragrances. From prestige to mass market, that's the essence of SJP, a new fashionable vampire.


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Thursday, December 17

Fragrance - my conference in Paris

Tuesday night I lectured on fragrance & fashion at the Behague Hôtel in Paris where I presented the most significant moments in the XXth century and the most important artistic ideas / experiments / collaborations since 2000 that involved the perfume or are related to perfume (also some short videos). I also presented 10 amazing creations from my personal collection including original formula of l'Origan Coty (that was the big hit of the evening) and l'Antimatière LesNez Isabelle Doyen. The evening ended with an experimental fashion show inspired by an ancient culture and its rituals.
Here you have a very short abstract of the slides I presented.

Le parfum est le 8ème ART
Mode et parfums
L’habit éphémère de l’invisible
Rozalb de Mura – The Remains 2010

- the unknown romanian story and scandal of François Coty (you can read also a new and intriguing book about Coty-Fragrance.Power.Money with some elements of his private life, first time revealed)
- the functions of scent from religion to the religion of beauty and aesthetic
- 1900 Le Parfum Idéal
- 1905 Origan Coty
- 1911 Paul Poiret Les Parfums de Rosine
- 1921 Chanel No 5 (presenting the original formula, some early Rallet creations and other unpublished facts about Ernest Beaux)
- Fragrance and Fashion Designers (the most important perfumes of couturiers since 1922)
- 1921 Marcel Duchamps Eau de Voilette
- Visionaire 42 Scent and their perfumes
- Sissel Tolaas and the aesthetic limits
- The works of Nobi Shioya
- Le Parfum - the movie and the coffret
- Perfume on stage - Michel Roudnitska and Christophe Laudamiel
- L'esthétique du Parfum - the main ideas and thinkers since Roudnitska
- L'esthétique des parfumeurs - Dominique Ropion and Jean Claude Ellena
- Type d'écriture du parfum contemporain - analyse esthétique de l'écriture de 6 grands parfumeurs contemporains
- Serge Lutens
- Frédéric Malle
- Artistic perfumery today - creative brands and special creations
- Yann Vasnier
- Special artistic projects from IFF and Givaudan since 2006
- The new relation of fashion and fragrance today (Nelly Rodi, Li Edelkoort, etc)
- The Six Scents Project
- What is the perfume today - aesthetic categories, structure. Réel / Imaginaire / AntiParfum

The fashion happening
Introduction of Manoumalia (Sandrine Videault) and the notion of anthropology in fashion/fragrance.

Fashion performance inspired by the culture of Oceania, the rituals and the blood.

Here you have my text in French:
Le parfum a été sueur des dieux mais aussi sang du Christ selon l'anthropologue Annick Le Guérer (Les Pouvoirs de l'odeur). Il devient un vêtement invisible doté d'un pouvoir magique. La société contemporaine oublie souvent les symboles très anciens préservés par les cultures locales lointaines. En 2008 un parfumeur explore les cultures du Pacifique pour créer un parfum magique - Manoumalia - œuvre de Sandrine Videault parfum aux fleurs blanches envoûtantes et magiques.
Rozalb de Mura, le plus connu nom roumain de l'avant garde nous transporte dans une autre culture ancienne. Le sang, le vêtement rituels des peuples aborigènes et son rituel sont le thème de la collection 2010.
Le costume cache l'identité tandis que le parfum dévoile son secret. A la manière d'une anatomie symbolique le costume devient viscéral. Il se dévoile tout en se cachant par le rituel l'homme. Une décomposition où les nœuds rappellent la décoration corporelle.
Les traces du passé nous hantent comme des ruines ou comme l'odeur d'un parfum précieux.

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Wednesday, December 16

Orgueil (Lucien Lelong) - vintage perfume review


From the exceptional legacy of Lucien Lelong, Orgueil comes as one of the most beautiful perfumes ever and one of the most accomplished creation of the house. It represents the concept of French perfumery at its best - quality of ingredients, harmony of the composition, delicacy, strength and an original interpretation of a known theme. It is not a surprise that it was launched right after the war and its name was a celebration of the French pride. What was more French in those years than the floral aldehydic or chypre floral aldehydic perfumes (known also as the "French type" in the professional jargon)? In fact, Orgueil is the updated version of both original Chanel No5 extract (not what is sold today) and Liu. Yet the theme (floral aldehydic jasmine-orris-rose) has something different and original. It is also chypre-fruity and less jasmine (Liu). We can consider Orgueil as a synthesis of No5-Crêpe de Chine - Arpège and Femme. The original note inside is brought by a base similar to Epicea (Synarome) - spicy clove nutmeg-rose ylang and sweet lactonic, an idea also found in Prunol (de Laire). That's why, while smelling the delicious Orgueil (Lucien Lelong) several perfumes are whispering in the aldehydic background - Rumeur (Lanvin) and Femme (Rochas). Femme was reinventing the chypre fruity in that period while Orgueil was reinventing the floral aldehydic theme bringing new shades that did not exist in No5 or Arpège. It is a very complex perfume in terms of notes. Almost symphonic, Orgueil presents all the known facets (even soft leather) under the floral aldehydic dominant. The floral bouquet is classic with a jasmine-rose-orris theme and a great milky tuberose note over a soft sandalwood, sweet powdery and ambery dry down plus a light chypre coda. The creamy sweetness combined with a soft fruity note (plum, peach) gives an amazing velvety feeling under the sparkling aldehydes. The drydown is of a remarkable beauty and lingers forever on the blotter with its delicate animalic civet-honeyed notes. (I will not tell you how it's on the skin ... pure heaven!)
Here you have an original description of the perfume in French from 1946:
"Cette haute senteur a le redoutable charme de Phèdre. Ce qu'il reste en Crète de l'Orient, santal et ambre le dénoncent. Mais tubéreuse et jasmin dominent de leur griserie pompeuse. Ainsi devait sentir la reine amoureuse et refusée, dans son repaire de pourpre, campée face au miroir, dure, offerte, révoltée, impatiente, les cheveux comme un ruisseau de sang caillé et fumante d'aromates".
You can read the story of Lucien Lelong the fashion couturier in a recent book with sublime fashion images Lucien Lelong. Some of his perfumes with their exquisite bottles are featured also in this auction catalogue Memories of Perfume: The Perfumes of Lucien Lelong and Masterpieces of Today.


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Friday, December 11

Interview with Céline Ellena

This weekend you can read a very beautiful interview in French with Céline Ellena, the sensible and exceptional perfumer, author of several creations of a refined modernity.
"Back to 18th century, NON! I love the modern perfumery" says the poet of delicate molecules in the article.
Indeed, the word poetry represents very well the world of Céline Ellena and it has less to do with the mood of her perfumes for The Different Company. It represents very textual her aesthetics. I remember one article she wrote for a conference in UK where she spoke about words and scents (you can call it "a method of creation" because it was very explicite).
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Sunday, December 6

Monocle and Comme des Garçons Scent Two: Laurel - review

Daring and spectacular, the new perfume from Monocle takes us to the land of spices and unusual scents - the smell of soap but not the one I dislike in fine fragrances. This time, it is not the regular white bar but a very traditional one. The perfume was inspired by a trip to the Bekaa Valley and "it will remind regular visitors to Lebanon of the country's hand-made laurel soaps and fragrant gardens in Byblos."
Monocle Scent Two Laurel reminds me also the very special character of French Lover (Pierre Bourdon) where freshness, sensual woods and aromatic notes are blended in a very special way. Under the strong spicy and aromatic notes of laurel and pepper the new Monocle fragrance hides a very warm, woody and ambery background. Here you might recognize classic woody notes like cedar molecules, patchouli, a light incense note, dry amber (maybe trimofix). The top note is dominated by aromatic herbs and a great amount of pepper and other spices (bay, clove, nutmeg ?). A very small rose almost fruity-plum (damascone type) is blooming behind the laurel - cypress forest.
Monocle Scent Two Laurel is a perfect fragrance if you are tired of conventional fougere mainstream perfumes or even by the sweet Orientals. It is daring (almost savory) and special by the unusual dosage of laurel and peppery notes. This time the overdose is welcome because it brings a very original note and long-lasting freshness. Is Ambroxan the new ideal of freshness?


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Friday, December 4

New Osmoz collection and special prices for Christmas

Osmoz is launching 2 new olfactory kits in the collection "Les Coulisses du Parfum" and has also a special price for a very fragrant Christmas: Complimentary shipping and 5% off on your order until december the 17th.


Volume IV, Vibrations of spices
12 emblematic spices essences to smell.
Spices are an invitation to both an olfactory voyage and to time travel. Humanity’s first currency, they inspired lust and greed in the age of the great sea-going expeditions. Like nuggets of olfactory gold, they have always been prized in perfumery, from ancient times to the present. Warm or cool, hot or sweet, spices can have starring roles in olfactory compositions, but are more often used sparingly, for a touch of texture or personality in fragrant creations. Combining subtle elegance, fresh vibrations and enveloping warmth, spices generate a broad palette of sensations that won’t leave anyone indifferent.
Essences in the kit: Clove, nutmeg, saffron, coriander, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, pink pepper, ginger, cardamom, everlasting, cinnamon, cumin.
Foreword by Annie Buzantian



Volume V - Delicious gourmand notes
12 emblematic gourmand notes essences to smell
Rediscover the olfactory pleasures of childhood, let your nose quiver with delight, satisfy your instincts… Praline and artificial vanilla will recall the scent of baked goods and fun fairs. A rum note is reminiscent of pleasure and enjoyment. Gourmand notes take turns being fatale and all-enveloping, reassuring and teasing, intriguing and ravishing. How can these 12 notes inspire so many different feelings all by themselves?
Try them and see for yourself! 12 essential gourmand notes from modern perfumery, at the base of a major olfactory category that has given birth to classic, sultry, bold and reassuring scents.
Essences in the kit : Plum note, peach note, pralin note, artificial vanilla note, vanilla note, coffee note, tonka bean note, pineapple note, raspberry note, cassis note, green apple note, rum note.
Foreword by Honorine Blanc

Complimentary shipping and 5% off on your order until december the 17th.
See also the complete collection of olfactory kits - Les Coulisses du Parfum on Osmoz.
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ESXENCE – The Scent of Excellence and the Artistic Perfumery

Press release from ESXENCE:

"The second edition of ESXENCE – The Scent of Excellence, the event dedicated to artistic perfumery, will take place in Milan from the 25th till the 28th of march 2010 at the Museo della Permanente in Via Turati, one of the cultural Italian landmarks, in this way renewing it’s value a san artistic event, and giving visibility to excellences that meet a certain level of constant quality.
Artistic Perfumery is a creative activity that at the same time is history, communication, willingness to express feelings, memories, moments, situations, in an intangible creation that spreads “per fumum” (through smoke) that in the perceiver triggers an intense emotional and vital reaction. His masterpieces are works of art through fashions and trends, marking milestones in the styles and artistic references of all ages, always strives for excellence in quality, nuance, in the detail and in the harmonies.
In Italy Artistic Perfumery has reached an important position in terms of turnover, dedicated distributors, and passionate retailers. It has attracted many international players, due to a model based on a high level of quality and commercial, distributive choices.
Esxence - The Scent of Excellence candidate’s itself for the second consecutive year as the international appointment for any brand that operates, with passion and conviction, to the magnificent art of the olfactory language, that is constantly rising as an added value in the style choices that each person takes, in order to distinguish themselves choosing superb creations born not to be enjoyed by everybody, but to be admired for their intrinsic beauty for who can appreciate them.
Esxence promotes an event formulated coherently with the objectives that this sector has in order to develop internationally with a qualitative level outlined by criteria that represents the belonging of a brand to the sector of Artistic Perfumery, and with constant attention to creativity.
Esxence is conceived as an international crossroads of views, experiences, suggestions, provocations and knowledge: it hosts parent companies, Italian and international distributors in support of the brands, accepting the press, buyers, Italian and foreign retailers.
The Interior exhibition spaces have been designed to exploit the peculiarities of each individual brand and identity with a rational layout, elegant and uniform, to enhance the preciousness of each "product-actor”.
Esxence - The Scent of Excellence s a scene of creative excellence from around the world without conflict in proposals, designed for those interested to listen with their nose, to understand and appreciate the stories, anecdotes and bold innovations.
Esxence - The Scent of Excellence welcomes those who, with skill and dedication, are part of the wonderful community that promotes the values, beauty and traditions of the Designer Perfumery.
Esxence the second edition will propose a series of events, educational and informational activities that will alternate in the four-day event, accompanied by meetings and debates in which the industry will analyze the evolution of this niche market. Many will also be the opportunities for brands that wish to increase their exposure, describe their profiles, and their newest products.
During open days (only by invitation) to the public, a series of experiential moments will be proposed in order to discover the fascinating world of perfumery."
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Lily Beach - Jacques Zolty - new perfume review

The new feminine creation of Jacques Zolty comes as the alter-ego of the very contrasted aromatic-fougere masculine fragrance launched several years ago. Lily Beach is very delicate, sensual and musky, soft like a precious cashmere wrapping the skin of a woman.
It starts as a very green gardenia and exotic lily blended with strong spicy notes of cardamom and ginger (plus ivy leaf). Lily Beach is a flower in bloom, transported by the air and sea, that will reveal very soon the soft odor of a feminine skin. Light woody and almost transparent, soft musky but also ambery and warm. The animalic side of the lily flowers is very delicate, almost imperceptible and reminds me the light animalic note hidden under the opulence of Lys Méditeranné and Carnal Flower. Soft and almost masculine, the drydown of the perfume suggests the cashmere with a light suggestion of the woody accord of Eau de Bvlgari / CK One but wrapped in salicylates and cotton musks. It suggests the water and the sand without being marine. The fruit of the Lily Beach seems to be a very small pear that blends very well with the creamy musks.
Lily Beach (Jacques Zolty) is not the strong and opulent lily flower but the image of white petals taken by the wind. A veil of flowers covering with tender and love a naked body on the dune.


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Thursday, December 3

Ninfeo mio (Annick Goutal) - new perfume review

After the mythical garden of Hesperides, that gave us Eau d'Hadrien, and the "Asian garden after the rain" transposed in Un Matin d'orage, Annick Goutal takes us to another garden, more secret and even more beautiful. If in the previous cases the "garden" was a metaphor located somewhere in the Eden of beautiful scents inspired by nature, this time it is an ancient garden located near Rome. The Ninfa Gardens from Italy with their amazing landscape à l'anglaise and medieval castle.
The imaginary landscape "Ninfeo mio" is a contemplative emerald perfume of a romantic beauty. The fascination with ancient places surrounded by an opulent vegetation gave us a genre in fine arts. This time the power of the secret place was sealed in a perfume drop by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen.
In the new aesthetic of freshness from Annick Goutal, following the first citrusy green Eau d'Hadrien and the more recent Un Matin d'Orage, Mandragore and Mandragore pourpre, the new creation brings the missing element. It is the forbidden fruit hidden under green leaves and opulent flowers in that imaginary paradise protected by the 3 mythical scents that form the word AME.
Very citrusy lemon, the perfume breathes between the green acidity of cedrat/lemon and the milkyness of lactones rounded by soft musks and woods and maybe a hint of delicate coumarine with its almond-hay-sweet note. The lavender note, very unusual for a perfume but with a great predecessor - Moment Supreme, is used here to impart the herbal effect of the vegetation hidden under the great trees of the garden (cypress I think).
The fig note is rather unusual, it is green lactonic leafy but it is not the pungent fig we are used to (and I think Labienoxime was used for that) and the combination of green/herbal/vegetal/fruity/lactonic elements suggests also another special material - mango leaf oil though it was not used in the perfume. Inside this special garden the nymphs are wearing delicate garlands of flowers - light jasmine, honeysuckle and soft rose/geranium with a small drop of green galbanum to suggest the green watery note (almost lotus).
Another concept used in the perfume is the "lemon wood" (bois de citronnier). It is the soft scent of a burning bark from the lemon tree Isabelle Doyen experienced many years ago that became the dark soul of Ninfeo mio.
From the very green and lemony top, the fragrance becomes warm, powdery and intimate underlined by a very special note - lentisque absolute.
Ninfeo mio is the surprise of an amazing emerald garden that gave me the same emotion as Un Matin d'Orage (but the formulas are not similar). Open the bottle and the leaves will invade your room with the mystery of life - the delicious fruit of temptation floating on the river of memories.
Photos of the Ninfa gardens


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Tuesday, December 1

E-bay - the end of fragrance auctions?

Shocking news came Monday from Paris:
"A French court yesterday fined Ebay €1.7m ($2.55m) for failing to stop the sales of LVMH perfume and beauty products on its French website. Allowing users to sell genuine LVMH products on Ebay violates a 2008 court order that barred the activity. " (From Financial Times)
On AFP you can read some statements in french.
Pierre Godé, administrateur du groupe LVMH - "Nous sommes évidemment satisfaits de cette décision qui consacre à nouveau le principe de la distribution sélective [...] Ce principe permet aux fabricants de choisir leur réseau de distribution."
Alexander von Schirmeister - directeur général d'eBay France - "cette décision pénalise les consommateurs en les empêchant de vendre ou d'acheter en ligne des biens authentiques".

Reuters in 2008: "EBay accused LVMH of having a hidden agenda. Today's decisions are not about fighting counterfeiting. It's about LVMH's desire to protect commercial practices that exclude all competition".
Reuters in 2009: " EBay Inc said on Monday that the Commercial Court of Paris' fine was too high and that the injunction blocking French eBay users from buying or selling LVMH cosmetics, including Christian Dior, Guerlain, Givenchy and Kenzo perfumes, hurts consumers. "The injunction is an abuse of 'selective distribution,'" Alex von Schirmeister, general manager of eBay in France, said in a statement. "It effectively enforces restrictive distribution contracts, which is anti-competitive."

But this time it seems to be less about the counterfeited products and more about selective distribution (at least in France). In other words if you receive a bottle of a Dior perfume and want to sell it online because you need money or you don't need it, it seems to me that this will not be possible in the near future because LVMH doesn't want you to do so.
The effects are already devastating. Unless you change some settings in your computer, from France the access to several ebay auctions is forbidden (I mean even to see them, not just to participate). A lot of auctions for collectors (vintage and historical perfumes to be very clear) from USA and other european countries are forbidden for french residents (for those who have less experience with computers).
To be clear again - if you live in France, do not speak english and are 100% novice to computer, your cannot access some ebay fragrance auctions. What is for me the value of LVMH Foundation for creation and art if I cannot buy a Piver / Gallet or even a Coty old catalogue because their actions have such a dramatic consequence for ebay?
This summer I experienced some problems with my computer and I had to use a different one in the lab where I had no administrator rights. Thanks to LVMH actions (remember what they did to classic perfumes reformulating without merci violating the fundamental right of the consumer to know what he buys) I could not apply/see some important ebay auctions where I often have a look to find important historical pieces. From that moment given the fact that the ebay "measures" were caused by LVMH actions it became very clear what LVMH stands for. At least not something with the respect for tradition, heritage and recognition of the art of fragrances. In terms of fragrance they go against the brand values they promote so hard.
For me, LVMH (plus l'Oréal) by their actions are violating my right to access the history of perfumery (in other words, my work).
This is not selective distribution but something worse.

And now, a question to Dior - What is the relation between the Dior perfumes produced in the Astrid factory in the former Czech Republic 20 years ago (Dior licence) and the birth of counterfeited products in Eastern Europe?
Another question to l'Oréal - What about the Lancôme products produced since the 80's in several former URSS factories?
Another question to both LVMH and l'Oréal - The perfumes / cosmetics sold in airports outside EU and USA are really made where the packaging mentions?
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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