Thanks to the tyranny of IFRA and the occult interests that are behind several demonic decisions we might lose another batch of natural ingredients and molecules in 2010 and 2011. Can you imagine a world without bergamot? We are not that far. Without several traditional aromatics or even without some basic molecules? Forget oak moss, musks or vanilla, that's already history. New IFRA standards and new briefs from brands (scared about the bad publicity) are the new threat in the labs.
In the article about new molecules and new naturals from Beyond Beauty you can read between the lines what perfumers think but cannot say. In a decade with the most beautiful molecules and the most advanced innovation in natural extraction, when customers are asking for beautiful and special scents, the future of this industry is collapsing under the threat of IFRA and the greed of several brands. Add to that the hypocrisy of ecological concern and other invented problems for the modern society. Minus the quality, the beauty, the consumer.
“What I miss the most bitterly are the raw materials that people no longer want to use or that are prohibited for poorly understood reasons – like civet, castoreum or ambergris – without an official decision having been made, for all that. All the major groups have banned them. It’s unfortunate that they didn’t dare to deal with the economic lobbies. [...] Nothing will replace these animal notes, or the oak moss that’s essential to the chypres fragrances - Dominique Ropion
“Lyral and soon Lilial, irreplaceable for the moment, two materials rather disdained because in the beginning they were used in detergents and soaps. But what would Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Le Mâle be without Lilial, or Biagiotti’s Laura and Ungaro’s Diva be without Lyral?" - Bernard Ellena
One of the craziest things I saw last year was a replacement for Lyral and other for Lilial - 2 blends (compositions up to 7 ingredients) created by a fragrance supplier to replace those molecules. In terms of composition this is 100% insane - to replace one molecule with other 5, but that's perfumery today. Will everything collapse in 2012? With IFRA and Bruxelles it might be sooner than the movie.
UPDATE: Read also the presentation done at the British Society of Perfumers Safety Symposium, 11th March 2010 - “Is excessive regulation destroying the perfumery art?”
UPDATE: Read also the presentation done at the British Society of Perfumers Safety Symposium, 11th March 2010 - “Is excessive regulation destroying the perfumery art?”
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
