Wednesday, June 23

Prix International du Parfumeur Créateur 2010

The winner of the SFP award -  "Prix International du Parfumeur Créateur 2010" was unveiled recently at Cannes at the WPC. From the 93 fragrances, built around the immortelle natural extract -the 2010 theme, the technical and artistic jury had selected SIY4, the code given by Claire Chambert to her creation.
Claire Chambert, with Expressions Parfumées since 2003, is now the 27th winner of this famous award (the first  goes back to 1957). 
I have recently sampled this delicious perfume - it is an oriental gourmand with tobacco notes with an extremely interesting liqueur effect and a classic "turkish tobacco blend" note. It has some common points with the immortelle perfume from ELO - Like This - but it is not dry and solar. The new perfume starts with an angelica / davana note and unveils a very gourmand licorice heart. The drydown is dominated by a "fruit sec" note, balsamic benzoin and maybe heliotropine. It is the pipe tobacco note (not Tabac Blond) that softens the dry herbal facet of immortelle flower. I detect also something like black tea (another beautiful natural note) and soft musks. For me, the perfume reflects a passion (or obsession) found frequently among french women perfumers - they love gourmand notes (maybe the antidote to the french salad and slim fashionable silhouette) and everything réglisse (some are able to detect a "réglisse" note in everything). the perfume is very good and very well balanced, but sadly it will not be in sale.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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