Cologne Royale, the new exclusive fragrance from "La Collection Couturier Parfumeur" is not the best example of what Dior could be today.
Less interesting and far less original than Cologne Blanche and Cologne Noire, this new creation is actually an "abstract" of what modern cologne is: citrus freshness plus white cotton musks. It suggests the original sparkling neroli freshness found in the classic Jean Marie Farina type, a perfume type that 250 years ago was probably a royal fragrance, but after a very short time falls into the non descript musky note and a huge hedione, the common solution of lazy perfumers. You put a fresh citrus top and a pleasant white musk and everybody will adore this dull inexpensive accord. Cologne Royale has a very interesting top note with mint and its bergamot-lemon freshness, combined with the mandarin and maybe a soft neroli note creates the illusion of the exquisite tea served in Maroc. The musky freshness with a touch of green and a synthetic orange flower molecule reminds one of the perfumes found in the Escale line. Unfortunately, there is nothing
royale inside this Dior cologne from Portofino, and like the new example from Guerlain, this is just a sketch to answer the request for a new launch.
François Demachy says that "Cologne is the ultimate challenge in Perfumery, because it follows the strictest style codes. It is impossible to cheat. The olfactory signature must be clear and immediately recognizable. The quality of the fragrance is entirely dependent on the quality of the ingredients used, citrus ingredients in particular. So, of course, I sought out the most fragrant notes I could find."
The perfumer did not cheat, he simply lost the bet. Totally uninspired, unfinished and useless, this is not couture. French perfumers should learn one day to give up the cologne style and rethink their references.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
