Tuesday, October 5

The One Gentleman (Dolce & Gabbana) - new fragrance review

Quite unexpected for this mainstream brand owned by the giant Procter & Gamble, The One Gentleman has an unusual touch of refinement and modernity between the plethora of violent aromatic fougères very Axe-like. The new Dolce & Gabbana fragrance is an interpretation of the beautiful patchouli accord found in L'Instant pour Homme (Guerlain), surrounded by cold metallic spices and the bitterness of the grapefruit (and I think there is a Guerlain version with the unusual grapefruit flower). The contrast between sweet and almost oriental notes, the very dry woody note and the bitter top note creates an original twist in this direction of light sophisticated masculine oriental. The scent suggests the exotic dry woods like guaiac or black cedar, surrounded by a specific smoky darkness typical of vanilla extracts. A light floral accord rose-jasmine-freesia creates the illusion of a feminine scent underlined by hot & cold spices over a woody background. It's tea and light tobacco, but also a mix of all families in an oriental context and a bottle that is also close to L'Instant pour Homme (Guerlain). The sweet ambery - orange flower - cardamom candy facet of the first "The One", so characteristic for the modern "golden" bling-bling perfumes has been removed. The dry woody note of The One Gentleman is closer to La Force (The Anthology line), a perfume built on the dark oriental side of the vanilla note contrasted with fresh elements, without being sweet-sugary. A subtle anise note (fennel) ads another original element to the inspiration while the profusion of musks and fresh cold metallic notes take us back in the mainstream zone. L'Instant pour homme EDP is rich, warm and tender like a rich cashmere (previously perfumed with Eau de Merveilles) while this aspect is not present in The One Gentleman (Dolce & Gabbana). The fragrance offers the same delicate smoothness found in Dior Homme, miles away from the violent shower freshness or the the extreme sweetness of orientals for the new macho. It is rather sharp, dry and unfinished like a massive block that needs a sculptor to carve the beautiful idea through exquisite details. A fragrance doesn't make a gentleman, says actor Matthew McConaughey in the interview and this is truly expressed by the perfume - it is rather a subtle accent and not a statement, nor an original signature.
Shot by Jean Baptiste Mondino, the advertising for The One Gentleman beautifully evokes an old-world finesse. Fellini’s 8 ½ dream, atmosphere and characters come to life again, with a modern, sophisticated mood, almost a celebration of La Dolce Vita’s 50th anniversary. The face of The One Gentleman is Matthew McConaughey, who also advertised The One in 2008.

A fragrance doesn't make a gentleman, says actor Matthew McConaughey.



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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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