. First marketed as a nasal decongestant, it became a dietary supplement (with caffeine) but also the primary active ingredient in the "new generation party pills".But the most surprising fact is that, as the name says, Geranamine is present in high concentrations in geranium oil from 0,5 to 1% and more.
What boys do not know is that their fathers and grandfathers got their daily dose of Geranamine every day for 150 years, since the invention of the first Fougere perfume, and up to now, when the expensive natural geranium Bourbon was often replaced with the cheaper synthetic version. It worked as a miracle fragrance for many generations of business men through their daily after- shave and for women as one of the most beloved type of perfumes. When girls say "I love masculine scents" they usually think of a fougere and rarely of Paco Rabanne One million.
In the original fougere types, from Fougere Royale to Azzaro, geranium oil was a key ingredient in the formula, the heart of the perfume between lavender and coumarine. In some cases it represented 15 to 25% of the formula. Gradually, something happened to this family with a boosted longevity. The amount of geranium, which clearly defined a certain olfactory note decreased and then the natural geranium, more and more expensive, was replaced with geraniol and other molecules found in the essential oil, often blended in a synthetic base. Somehow, the original effect and the olfactory note of the geranium oil became weaker or simply disappeared. I wish to underline that there is no published research of Geranamine effects in fragrances, but we have billions of consumers who used and adored fougere colognes, preferring this type to all others. Also there are no studies to topical geranamine, but men used shaving creams and balms with high amounts of geranium oil for almost a century.
The only contemporary perfume with an extreme dose of geranium of the purest quality is Geranium pour Monsieur (Frederic Malle), one of the most accomplished creations of the recent years. The geranium oil represents the heart of this marvelous creation, underlined with mint and some rare spices and because of this combination, I believe this fragrance is not only a new aesthetic statement or just a beautiful scent. I believe this opens the way to a new type of creations, not possible for mass market brands like those from L'Oréal or Procter&Gamble which cannot afford more than 1% natural ingredients in their formula conceived to please millions of consumers.
I see the future of fragrances as a combination of art and science through new concepts on naturals, research and patents. It is about art but also about a more conscious use of fragrances in relation with our body and mind. Some molecules have a profound effect on us while other not at all. It is this quintessence, and not the dull marketing research, that is the base of future great creations. Beauty in fragrance is universal and in some cases there is some biology inside (and the chemistry of love). I'll give you one fundamental example: the musk tincture and the musk molecules - the scent is there but not the effect.
Speaking about Geranium pour Monsieur (Frederic Malle), why shouldn't we deliver the fragrance through a "double layered transdermic patch"? From on side it delivers the active ingredient in the body (in this case a cocktail of active ingredients boosting the energy and fat loss) and from the other side it perfumes you. All with an exquisite design to act as a body ornament or ephemeral tattoo.
(if you see this next year, call me to ask for royalties)
Note: there is a special Chinese geranium with an exquisite scent and awesome chemical composition and a geranium plant that smells both geranium and incense.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
