Thursday, November 18

l'Abeille de Guerlain - new review of an imperial perfume

Yesterday I was desperately looking for a billionaire in Paris because my Christmas list is quite impressive and  writing is more a volunteer "job". One of the most delicate, fragile and subtle perfumes of this fall comes from Guerlain and is preciously kept in an exceptional Baccarat bottle sold with an undecent price (12500 EUR).
Quite far from the characteristic Guerlain opulence, L'Abeille Impériale is a contemporary creation focused on the lightness of sensual flowers surrounded by the muskiness found in the recent creations of the house, all contrasted with a beautiful green jasmine and almondy note. The fragrance is built around the fresh acacia notes, an extremely rare soliflore in our days. In the past the acacia concrete was available to perfumers and in 2009 I made an olfactory description of this special floral scent . L'Abeille Impériale reflects the green and delicate floral note of the opulent grape in the wind and the freshness of the floral breeze. This is the blooming acacia when the buds are delicately opening their mystery to the sun. The green facet of the petal, the alluring light orange flower and the softly honey note are represented with accuracy and sensibility. Next to acacia comes a fresh mimosa, quite similar in style with the note used in Champs Elysées (but without its pungency) and the alluring sensual freshness of lilac. The honey note is very delicate and reflects more the sweet nectar found in spring flowers (the delicious nectar of honeysuckle, did you taste it?) and less the conventional honey note of perfumes and "miel d'acacia". But after the exquisite floral bouquet, an exercise in classic refinement strongly underlined by a general silkiness like the one experienced while smelling the albizia flowers, comes the delicate smoothness of the drydown. Here, orris, jasmine, rose, touches of peach and a drop o vanilla-tonka are perfectly blended in one of the most feminine accords, an idea also found in the perfume "Les Secrets de Sophie" (and in a more delicate way in Beige de Chanel). Everything is wrapped in a good dose of white cotton musks and their very warmth contributes to the overall smoothness. A subtle green note suggesting the jasmine sambac flower buds and hyacinth is perfectly laced inside the acacia blossoms, contrasting with the white jasmine note and its deluxe soap connotations. I believe that even a very light gardenia note (not very cruel!) is used to underline the white floral aspect. Not very contrasted but fragile and innocent, L'Abeille Impériale is a perfume that moved my soul from the very first seconds. It's simply beautiful and I wish this perfume was available for all, and not just the more fortunate or the bottle collectors who'll never open this exceptional creation.
A small advice for those visiting Paris: there is only a small 10ml tester for the perfume, so you should rush to Guerlain Champs Elysées to try this marvel. The shop window with the sun and the moon is magnificent.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
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