Definitely inspired by Cologne pour le Soir and its absolute version with its deep animalic sensual touch, "Miroir des voluptés" is not just a new interpretation. Here, the perfumer took the Francis Kurkdjian's idea and gave it a new meaning through 2 major changes. A very modern ambery note replaced the classical theme and an original accord was built around the natural rose.
Rose-amber-incense is one of the oldest accords of perfumery and this idea dates back to the early Antiquity as it is presented in an exceptional book (Parfums de l'Antiquité : La rose et l'encens en Méditerranée). That's why, working this type of idea is not an easy task for the perfumer - you can easily find yourself in a cliché - an accord that found its achievement in a previous era. But in Miroir des voluptés (Thierry Mugler) this familiarity is skillfully avoided. First, the ambery note is completely modern using several new molecules from the amber family which beautifully wrap the woody blend of patchouli and sandalwood. The perfumer could have added a simple rose oil note on top, but he preferred to transform this natural rose into something different - quince, the dark side of the pear note found in fresh roses. The fragrance starts with an exquisite quince note, a very sensual interpretation of a not so common fruity note - this is a delicious quince elixir, infused with a spicy note. Somehow the perfumer managed to avoid the alimentary note and this original accord built around the rose is both gourmand and sensual. But under this you will find the exquisite honey note and the animalic civet, underlining the facets of the velvety rose marinated in the quince syrup. Honey-civet-benzoin are classic modifiers of oriental roses and ambery notes and here they work like the "sensual engine" of the fragrance. There is something quite sober inside this perfume and despite its voluptuous connotation, this is neither über gourmand nor über sensual, maintaining the fragile balance of an exquisite taste. The oudh note is very delicate inside, like a fragile veil while the tobacco note is quite an important effect in this type of accord. There is only 2 things that I consider not perfect inside this new creation from Mugler - there is a moment when the top-middle notes and the bottom notes split and the beautiful fruity character from the top is not followed in the drydown and the drydown has not enough richness. From the same family as Mitzah (Christian Dior), but with its own identity, Miroir des voluptés (Thierry Mugler) blurs again the line between the masculine-feminine code. Some of the dry ambery notes and crisp woods are often found in contemporary masculine orientals. I believe this perfume would work even better on a masculine skin because of its animalic undertones - it goes perfect with your hair, unlike the "shaved" immaculate colognes.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art