Every new perfume of Daniela Andrier is a surprise and with each of it the author shows an increasing fascination with fragrance, shades and textures. You can feel that she adores her work and it is not the brand who commands, nor the market but only her. The perfumer is the master, in the most commercial environment like Miuccia Prada is in fashion. I started to love her perfumes from the moment I felt that almost all (but not all from the very beginning) have that particular element that defines a style. In Untitled (Martin Margiella) it was not the perfume that I dislike but the artistic direction of the brand under l'Oréal brand.
With Infusion Vetiver (Prada) we have something very special, exquisite and so simple. It is not the heavy earthy rooty smell of the vetiver essence that represents the main theme, but the vetiver as a plant and what grows around. Take a look at the vetiver in its original environment and you'll understand exactly what this perfume is all about. The vegetal vetiver is actually infused with water and you can feel all the green notes, the tropical rain, the freshness and the vital liquid that is extracted by the roots. Infusion vetiver is a poem about nature (water, air, green, roots and woods) and the life is flowing through its veins.
It takes the best from the new freshness and the new green trend, all packed in a very harmonious perfume where the vetiver is the pretext. It's more an abstract vetiver infused with the bitter freshness of grapefruit almost aldehydic, with soft green galbanum notes (is it the new molecule from Givaudan?), transparent woods and new creamy musks (serenolide?). From the fresh top of Dior Homme Sport (without the ginger), the green galbanum-jasmine of Jasmine White Moss (Estée Lauder) it evolves into an elegant airy scent where you can almost feel the emotion of Jean ClaudeEllena and his work around the cologne notes with aromatic touches. But Daniela Andrier made all these possible influences her own and this infusion smells Prada with that almost recognizable accord in the dry down, between fresh musky soap and the modern cologne.
If the ginger was tasty in Dior Homme, here it becomes bitter and airy like a squezed grapefruit. The tarragon on the top with its anis note underlines in a very subtle way the licorice effect found in vetiver. On the dry down you can experience the musky green (almost milky lactonic) note found in Untitled but diluted 100 times.
Sharp and concise like the aldehydic scent of a Thai vegetable, Infusion Vetiver reinvents the idea of Cologne. If in the past years we saw many cologne-like perfumes, fresh and citrusy, this time we have the most intelligent answer to this "trend" where an ingredient is exposed and dematerialized until it becomes air. It has neither the word cologne or sport.
Infusion de Vetiver (Prada) has also an almost chypre green note in the dry down, a reference maybe to the 70's revival but Daniela Andrier avoided any retro reference. It's modern like Prada fashion, innovative yet so familiar and I adore the trail it gives in the air.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
, une approche du philosophe qui se propose de réhabiliter un sens négligé (dans l'univers académique) et de présenter un modèle de l'art olfactif. On y retrouve les références majeures aux textes qui depuis l'Antiquité ont "attaqué" l'odorat, textes qui manquent souvent la vision d'un créateur. On peut pas parler odeur sans connaître la"matière" et le parfum, déjà un art occulte et occulté, a du attendre le XXIème siècle pour se faire écrire et comprendre.
