The fragrance seems to be a development of Egoiste Platinum, the aromatic fougere from the 90's rich in pungent molecules with a metallic clean facet like dihydromircenol or from the linalool family. If Chanel No5 was art in 1921 this Bleu de Chanel is pure marketing. It smells like the entire fresh-sport masculine section with no absolutely original twist - what today is called sport. I'm sure that it will sell very well because of the name and the massive advertising that will pop-up every where. I wish that Scorsese did not do the ad or that by a miracle 75% of Chanel sale points would fall over night. The price to pay on the creative level is to high and you will feel it smelling Bleu de Chanel. Please do not make any speculations on the color Bleu and Chanel historic fashion. It is pure nonsense and smelling the perfume will reveal the sad truth. All the modern masculine perfumes are inside this one: Dior Homme Sport (with its ginger freshness but Chanel has not the warm notes), YSL l'Homme (with its aromatic metallic fougère elements), Allure Homme Edition Blanche and even the soft suede note from the last Burberry or a hint of the sweet woody labdanum accord from the big hit - Paco Rabanne.
This perfume is actually a collage, an embroidery with the best-sellers of the masculine market depicted with accuracy on a time scale and in a very fresh woody tone. But nothing more! It smells so formulaic as if Jacques Polge distilled the sporty perfumes extracting their essence and removing any additional note or daring contrast.
Bleu de Chanel starts with a big citrusy top note (lemon, grapefruit) and a strong metallic synthetic lavender. It is cold, lemony and aromatic with spicy accents from pink pepper and at this level smells very much like the boring top note of the latest Calvin Klein. Very soon, Dior Homme Sport enters the scene with its fresh ginger note contrasted with some warm woods (cedar, vetiver, a very well known mix of molecules found in 90% of the masculine perfumes diluted in Hedione). The freshness of synthetic airy jasmine paired up with a couple of lily of the valley molecules (Lyral) and an ozonic accent suggests the breeze quality of Allure Home Sport in a less original way. The drydown is woody almost dry with some ambery notes (karanal/timberol and cedramber type contrasting the rose), dry woods with a mossy facet coupled with coumarine (soft hay) and a touch of incense that accentuates the woods (cedar). On the skin the perfume is not very tenacious leaving a soft musky trace and almost a chypre effect. A touch of sweet ambery fruity (!) note also characterizes the drydown as if a 1% dilution of Paco Rabanne 1 Million was made on purpose. Maybe the most interesting facet of the perfume is the very light suede note that appears after the strong and pungent freshness has gone.
I am 100% disappointed by this perfume but I believe that many young customers, used to Axe deodorants, will be seduced by this creation. The only good thing about this fragrance is its construction and its elegant appeal after the metallic top (Platinum like). Jacques Polge has mastered all the ideas in a good remix. It doesn't say anything new, it has nothing to inspire. But it is a good base to be used if you are a perfumer because it allows to put many accents and exaggerate things.
The shade of blue, somewhere between navy and black is present on the square bottle that looks like the masculine Narciso Rodriguez. There are hundreds perfumes like this on the market but only one is called Chanel and has the double C logo.
With the recession, luxury groups became mass market in perfumes. It seems that it is the only alternative. Do not expect quality where the glitter shines too much. Unfortunately snobbery sells well in many countries.The fragrance will be supported by an ad campaign pairing director Martin Scorsese and actor Gaspard Ulliel (and model Ingrid Schram). It relates the story of a man who tries to conquer the heart of a woman to the beat of "She Said Yeah" by the Rolling Stones.
Bleu de Chanel The Movie
Interview with perfumer Jacques Polge about Le Bleu de Chanel
Making of Bleu de Chanel, with Gaspard Ulliel, directed by Martin Scorsese
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art