"What is more exciting for a woman than a pair of Jimmy Choo?" says the copy of the new ad now everywhere in Paris and the answer found on the blotter is …. Chanel. I was tempted to try the perfume of the shoemaker for only one reason - for almost 2 weeks I've been bombarded with spam news about the imminent launch of every fashionista's dream. And indeed, the perfume is a surprise because it smells Chanel so obvious, becoming the perfect definition of the mass market fashion - your dreams are in rue Cambon but you buy the copies at H&M. Jimmy Choo is a decent floral fruity (pear and peach) patchouli that evokes the subtle delicacy of Coco Mademoiselle mixed with the erotic touch of Allure Sensuelle. But unlike these very good perfumes, Jimmy Choo has not been wrapped in the soft chypre effect. It has the light peachy muskiness of an entire generation of perfumes paying homage to Narciso Rodriguez. This is not class but mass. Tamara Mellon, the founder and artistic director of the house said that already 15 years ago she dreamt of a perfume. She was certainly dreaming of the fruity chypre from Guerlain Collection - Elixir Charnels but could not afford it. It is very interesting to compare this Jimmy Choo perfume with those who clearly inspired the accord. In fact, it is only a fraction of the Chanel fragrance and by contrast, the creations of Jacques Polge reveal an incredible chypre - jasmine absolute facet that are not present in the new perfume. Jimmy Choo is far from being a couture creation and its spirit is closer to the original pear note used in Hypnose (Lancôme) later in The One, with a patchouli-sandalwood-ambery aspect, and it avoids the shampoo effect. A very small variation on a very known theme, well crafted with modest ingredients and some patchouli light caramel (and toffee effect) for the low budget of a mass market client dreaming of luxury creations. The last example from a long saga of neo chypre perfumes, Jimmy Choo will not last many seasons on the market. It does not bring anything new, it lacks the sparkle of the genre from Chanel to Dolce & Gabbana, at least is not vulgar but well balanced.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art