The winter issue of the fashion magazine Industrie has a 4 page interview with François Demachy, the head perfumer of the biggest luxury group LVMH, owner of several famous historical brands like Guerlain or Dior. The interview is extremely fascinating and François Demachy explains his work and then he draws a very reallistic portrait of the perfume industry. This is not marketing, not PR, but a kind of interview you will not read every day! The perfumer speaks about IFRA and all the drastic changes caused by regulations. He also unveils the new Fahrenheit and describes the scent of the next Dior creations after their exclusive collection. The perfumer explains with subtlety his previous role at Chanel and how he convinced the brand that Sheldrake is his best "replacement" in one of the biggest mystery of the fragrance industry "who was actually the real nose of Chanel after Henry Robert?". Despite rumors on the authorship of several masterpieces that I will not discuss on the blog, I did not know François Demachy was the creator of Diva (and Egoiste, only helped by Jacques Polge) until I read this interview. Of course, the question of authorship doesn't stop here because the modern creations belonging to LVMH are in the same situation, too. I only hope that somewhere the names are remembered.
In another interview in GQ Russia he is even more explicit about the mutilation of perfumes caused by IFRA. Both interviews are extremely important because for the first time the head perfumer of a big luxury house officially recognizes what has been said for years and denied by their PR: "Classic perfumes are not the same anymore". Of course, this doesn't change very much, but at least the public knows they cannot buy anymore the genuine product from LVMH in the olfactory form imagined decades ago.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
