Wednesday, January 12

Six Scents: Series Three - No. 1 “Beau Bow” by Alexis Mabille and Rodrigo Flores-Roux - new fragrance review

"Beau Bow" from Rodrigo Flores Roux for designer Alexis Mabille is an explosion of vivid gren citrus notes immersed in the most sensual floral chypre accord. It has the vibe and the lure of the youthfull perfumes popular in the early 1970's like O de Lancôme and other colognes where the new green molecules were contrasted in an ocean of light florals, usually based on jasmine-rose accords, with deep woods like vetiver, cedar, patchouli, often present with their unusual synthetic version paired with a good dose of white moss. Yellow green like the acid tonality of limes and cedrat, this breeze unveils a herbal aromatic chypre essence where the basil and the velvety new moss notes are the key. The whole accord, though in a very modern and "transparent" interpretation, is reminiscent of those beautiful perfumes like Sikkim (Lancôme), Partage (Fabergé) up to the more recent (and very deep) interpretations of the chypre note given by Dominique Ropion in the past 5 years. The lightness of Cristalle and its more modern interpretation, Jasmine White Moss (Estée Lauder), is represented in "Beau Bow" with delicacy and tenderness because the perfume is actually an "Eau Fraîche" type focused on the crisp lemony notes. Like a veil of summer, uncomplicated but elegant, "Beau Bow" suggests the joy of living, and those icy cocktails served with mint, basil and rum.

Six Scents: Series Three is an exploration into the nature of childhood memories and the influence of adolescence on identity. It features unisex fragrances from designers Alexis Mabille, Mary Katrantzou, Junn.J, Rad Hourani, N.Hoolywood, and Ohne Titel in collaboration with perfumers from Givaudan.
Making Scents of Memories
"It was a fantastic experience to be immersed in Alexis’ world. His impeccable taste, his enormous knowledge of the history of art, fashion and design, and a deep love for garden flowers “that are somewhat vintage or out of fashion” provided a lot of fun and inspiration. Alexis wanted his fragrance to be very chic, very bourgeois, quintessentially French. Both of us share a nostalgic memory of the ideal image of France in the 1970’s, elegantly modern, but strangely, still romantic, a bit hazy, like a David Hamilton photograph. I picture Alexis as a kid, with his cat as inseparable sidekick, already thinking about the bow laden dresses of his brilliant future. A sweet boy with a conviction... just like the fragrance structure we chose to develop. We re-imagined the fresh and elegant “Eau Fraiche” structure so popular in France in the 70’s, and gave it a jolt... and a twist... Our result: the crisply fragrant image of a very chic and cultured French teenager who enjoys his quirks and is eager to discover the world, making love to it for the first time and breathing it all in.” – Rodrigo Flores-Roux, perfumer

Six Scents: Series Three - No. 1 “Beau Bow” by Alexis Mabille
Ingredients
Top notes: Luminous hesperides: Sicilian cedrat, juicy mandarin, Calabrese bergamot and tart bigarade orange from Andalusia, playful herbal and green accents: Provencal lavender, “Grand Vert” basil , garden mint, violet leaf absolute, Persian galbanum, lentisque resin
Heart notes: Lush and layered florals: Egyptian jasmine, sambac from India, Magnolia grandiflora, rose attar from Bulgaria, wild Alpine cyclamen and white honeysuckle.
Bottom notes: An elegant chypre accord: vetyvert from Reunion, mossy nuances, iris absolute from Florence and the sheer woodiness of Kephalis.


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