Rather unusual by its theme, a concept speaking about life, death and the scent of sperm, the perfume created by Christophe Raynaud for Rad Hourani is maybe the opposite of the radical idea, usually represented through scents that are out of the reach of classic perfumery. In fact, Ascent is the scent of emptiness and purity and it clearly evokes through its linear evolution 2 important references - the scent of a white bar soap (Camay type) and the scent of baby powder, all in a veil of "white" aldehydes. Rich, soft and not contrasted, this is the scent of a strange object when the hand seizes the roundness of a creamy shape much like the first impression (not olfactory) in front of a huge magnolia blossom. The scent, a huge creamy soap where the jasmine note is dry and the woods are floral between orris and cedar is only the metaphor of sperm and its visual representation. The perfumer avoids with grace any obvious connotation, as it was the case in a previous creation, also imagined at Givaudan. Indeed, there are many spermatic notes in nature, several flowers and leaves exhibit them as a specific combination of molecules, and this could be a theme to be explored in a more subliminal way. Most surprising, the whiteness of this perfume from Givaudan has something extremely classic, the idea has already bloomed through several Chuit Naef specialties 90 years ago, like Irrozol and Magnolys. The incense-sweet-orris note gives a new dimension to the cotton musk note and this original "fleur de cotton" accord is already on the market in a personal care product.
Six Scents: Series Three - No. 4 Ascent by Rad Hourani
Six Scents: Series Three is an exploration into the nature of childhood memories and the influence of adolescence on identity. It features unisex fragrances from designers Alexis Mabille, Mary Katrantzou, Junn.J, Rad Hourani, N.Hoolywood, and Ohne Titel in collaboration with perfumers from Givaudan.
Making Scents of Memories
“I was inspired by Rad’s vision of the cycle of life, going from birth to death, from ashes to ashes, as in David Bowie’s song. Origin of life is expressed by a fresh accord, green and watery, like a drop of sperm. Childhood is evoked by baby powder, it’s a musky and powdery scent. Midlife is expressed by a leathery note, comfortable yet strong like a leather jacket. Then the end of life is symbolised by incense, not a morbid, but a liturgic odor, evoking the ambiance of the churches. The results is a contrasting fragrance, luminous yet dark, shiny and mate, like Rad’s fashion.” - Christophe Raynaud, perfumer
No. 4 Ascent by Rad Hourani
Top Notes: Pear Juice, Violet Leaf
Heart Notes: Ylang Ylang, Rose, Cedarwood, Leather Accord
Bottom Notes: Incense, Powdery Musks, Tonka Beans, Benzoin
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art