Was Edmond Roudnitska thinking of other less known flowers when he composed Diorissimo? Last week, I was suddenly amazed in a garden by a mysterious fresh and strong scent that was filling the air. The first word that came to my lips before I was able to detect the source was - styrax. In fact, the air was scented with the purest version of styrax extra (without its drydown note) combined with the purest indol note and the purest rose alcohol note. This type of Coronilla (Fabaceae) smells as if the heart of a lilac meets the heart of a hyacinth, without their characteristic unmistakable notes. But above all, this delicious and highly diffusive scented bush smells of something else. It is the precise note of the heart and drydown of Diorissimo, after the green and rosy notes are gone. It doesn't change for several days after it was cut. The illusion is perfect and there is no place for other interpretations. Again, the scent of a plant has reached an unusual degree of perfection and for the perfumer these small yellow flowers represent a key to understand the construction of scents in other sophisticated examples. Take the accurate reconstruction of this yellow flower and you have the heart of a lily of the valley, the heart of a hyacinth and the heart of a lilac. With very simple modifications you can simulate the scent of all these examples, obtaining each time the most precise representation. With a more practical vision in mind I would say this is the perfect candidate for a floral base, a strong characteristic note with an amazing versatility that can be transformed in many other beautiful scents.
To my surprise, I've never found any mention about this flower in classic perfume books.
To my surprise, I've never found any mention about this flower in classic perfume books.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
