Givaudan has unveiled Paradisamide, a classic captive created around 2003-04 and available only to their perfumers. It belongs to an entire family of N-substituted amides developed between 1994 and 2004 at Quest, all with strange, unusual notes from strong fruity cassis to rhubarb woody aspects, as represented by other molecules from the family like Gardamide or Agarbois.
This family has a very special story like many other wonderful molecules supplied by Givaudan. When Mr. Charles Sell, Karl Swift and their team started to work on this class of molecules at Quest, they found it in the most unexpected place in the chemical literature. Amides were not very used in perfumes. They are aliens with unexpected, special and lovely notes. During the research, one surprise was the scent of the various isomers. They didn't smell as expected and for this reason, you will find many shades and complex notes inside every single molecule. Some molecules are small tropical poems.
Paradisamide is a pure jewel by the quality and richness of facets and distinctly combines the green bitterness of the rhubarb (plus a faint livèche note) with the sparkling fruitiness of lactonic and zesty tropical fruits from the guava family. It smells like 4 molecules in one: the characteristic facet of the classic Rhubofix, the nectar quality of a modern lactone, the modern grapefruit note from Pamplenol & Pamplefleur and the green pineapple aspect of some esters from the AAG family. Several modern rhubarb molecules from other suppliers are Rhubofix, Rhubafuran, Rhubaflor, also Vigoflor. As you can see, this is a very versatile product, extremely elegant and is open to overdose. Paradisamide perfectly resumes a perfume in one molecule. This beautiful raw material smells like "Pamplemousse rose" (Hermès), has a vibrant tenacity, a very colorful personality and is superior to the previous notes from the same family. Beyond its obvious application in fruity notes, it goes perfectly with modern bitter woody notes and green chypre perfumes from the 70's. In fact, there is an entire line of "forgotten" perfumes from that era, with vibrant green, light pineapple notes and a very refined leathery IBQ facet. What is unusual for this ingredient is the ability to bring or enhance new leathery aspects (with Safraleine for instance) creating the illusion of a quinoleine, all under a zesty and sparkling facet. Could we have a fruity leather facet? Though not from the quinoleine family, nor a piridine (there is one with a strong green aspect over an elegant almost IBQ note) I would not be surprise to find something of this type in the surprising family of Paradisamide.
Even a refined raspberry note (C20 + raspberry ketone) is hidden inside this cocktail of notes making Paradisamide a perfect molecule for a cassis, elder flower, quince or even Sauvignon Blanc note and a modern castoreum. I see it also in modern magnolia and dewy gardenia accords (it has a doll facet too) , all over a modern vetiver drydown.
This molecule is extremely rich in possibilites and is a perfect element for creative accords in overdose.
Even a refined raspberry note (C20 + raspberry ketone) is hidden inside this cocktail of notes making Paradisamide a perfect molecule for a cassis, elder flower, quince or even Sauvignon Blanc note and a modern castoreum. I see it also in modern magnolia and dewy gardenia accords (it has a doll facet too) , all over a modern vetiver drydown.
This molecule is extremely rich in possibilites and is a perfect element for creative accords in overdose.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
