One of the most interesting discoveries of this fall is the south African 100% natural organic line FRAZER, created by a Tammy Frazer, whose grandfather is the inventor of Oil of Olay. Today, these fragrances became available in Paris. Every creation is presented as a pure perfume and each 22g comes in a hand blown opaque glass flacon with dropper crafted by glass artist David Reade of Worcester South Africa. The parfum solide comes as 5g of solid beeswax perfume in an African Blackwood compact.
Every chapter of the collection is inspired by a travel and the discovery of several raw materials unique, specific for each place or inspired by the landscape. The perfumes are based on simple binary accords around a main theme which unfolds gently revealing other notes. Each label shows the theme but the binary accord presents itself more as a relation between dominant and subdominant. All the creations are extremely harmonious with a great pursuit of balance revealing each time the main dominant natural ingredients which directs the scent exploration. Like small embroideries, they are works around jasmine absolute, rose absolute, orange flower absolute or patchouli. With one, maybe 2 exceptions, their smoothness is exceptional and evoke classic accords found in XIXth century perfumes or in the modern natural perfumery. These perfumes portray the discovery of scents and basic raw materials with delicacy and love. I hope however that in the future the author will portray also the discovery of the art of perfumes, its history and the desire to bring original notes because composition is more than a harmonious blend.
CHAPTER 1 nutmeg and jasmine - inspired by India
The rich animalic depth of jasmine absolute is delicately contrasted with the spiciness of nutmeg for a creamy, sultry and highly sensual potion delicately underlined by sandalwood.
CHAPTER 2 ylang and narcisse - inspired by Madagascar
Highly narcotic and potent, this potion of ylang ylang and several yellow flowers like narcissus evokes the warm and intoxicating presence of a lily, spiced with pepper and contrasted with the freshness of lime over a soft rooty base dominated by vetiver.
CHAPTER 3 coffee and orange blossom - inspired by Australia
The orange blossom dominates this half sensual half fresh and honeyed fragrance while the coffee is extremely delicate, woven inside a woody powdery drydown with orris and sandalwood.
CHAPTER 4 Corsica Everlasting - inspired by Corsica
Extremely strong and pungent, this interpretation pairs the strong everlasting (immortelle) flower with another aromatic cold and camphorous note recalling wintergreen, thyme and the herbal salty notes growing around the sea. Dior explored a similar theme, but Frazer's version has more body and depth.
CHAPTER 5 Swiss Stone - inspired by Switzerland
This is one of the most special from the collection and evokes the high altitude flora, with woods, herbs and soft aromatic notes where the snow smells like small camphor crystals.
CHAPTER 6 mint and patchouli - inspired by the Spice Trade
An exceptional classic interpretation of the camphorous patchouli note, paired with a delicate minty facet surrounded by green tea and a small ginger shade. This chypre woody mossy scent contains also frangipani, but this note, extremely popular in the XIXth century, is very delicate inside.
CHAPTER 7 rose and tuberose - inspired by India
This classic combination is dominated by the rose absolute note, with its green leafy and creamy honeyed shades while the tuberose ads only a new dimension of sensuality without unveiling all its power.
CHAPTER 8 oakmoss and violet leaf - inspired by England
Between chypre and fougère, this perfume evokes the humid forest with the classic combination of mosses and green violet leaf. It is surrounded also by lavender, geranium and a small leathery aspect
The house comes with an important statement about nature, quality and sustainability which can be read in the ETHOS part of the website. However, there are still many things to be done on the creative level and the scent exploration from South Africa. There are plants and local traditions that I know better from Paris and if the brands seek authenticity the author should do carry a deeper research. A small clue ... the amazing scented violet tree, the gladiolus and the famous freesia, all in a south African place called the bulb capital of the world where many of my favorites plants grow.
"All facets of the range have been handmade by leading South African artists to aid industry development of local fine art, culture, design & entrepreneurship. Frazer Parfum is in support of the African Blackwood Conservation Project. Frazer Parfum is committed to the culture of South Africa while consistently challenging the boundaries within a developing country to enact change by raising awareness. Frazer Parfum actively operates under the basis of a harmonious and just development by educating local industry in the art of perfumery by activating a traditional industrial sector to participate in the economic revival of essential oil farmers in South Africa."
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
