Nothing more than a pleasant sweet orange flower perfume, the first creation of Elie Saab has little to do with the exuberant haute couture dresses of the lebanese designer. Actually, it belongs to those mass market creations like Guess which have recently entered the French perfume stores with their deceitful heavy bottles imitating crystal filled and with a peachy syrup They are the juices of a younger generation with sterile imagination and play list attitude in the post Bling-Bling era.
It seems that the current owner of the Elise Saab license, BPI (Beauté Prestige International) simply forgot what a perfume is. Last year, a conference given by the most important man of the group for La Société Française des Parfumeurs explained why. How can you expect quality from a group that clearly denies the artistic quality of the perfume and doesn't recognize the work of the perfumer as a form of art, not even as a metaphor.
In the case of Elie Saab Le Parfum, the blindness of BPI is obvious because the author of this new fragrance with such an exquisite sense of banality, is no other than the famous and highly talented Francis Kurkdjian.
When you brief a perfumer who recreated the fragrance of Marie Antoinette and an entire line of luxury perfumes overdosing the natural orange flower, and the result is this thing, there must be something terribly wrong.
It obviously starts with a total disrespect for the perfumer who made millions for BPI with Le Mâle (Jean Paul Gaultier) and other creations. BPI exists because they had several good formulae in the 90's (without paying royalties to the perfumers as it should be normal), not because they knew how to make a perfume.
Despite the huge experience the perfumer accumulated during all these years, they asked Francis Kurkdjian to create an irrelevant soup, trivial and without any trace of personality, which cannot stand near a 1% solution of orange flower absolute. It fades like a nylon scarf near a 100% silk haute couture dress. BPI has the same low standards as L'Oréal with a huge difference - they are less skilled and less professional when they bottle banality.
This year I met several producers of essential oils and absolutes from Egypt, Morocco and Tunisia. You simply cannot imagine how exquisite are their floral extracts, in some cases with flowers that are less and less used in commercial perfumes.
If you love the orange flower, do not buy Elie Saab, but simply use a solution of orange flower absolute or neroli oil. A 5% solution in alcohol is more powerful, long-lasting and even less expensive than the bottle you buy at Sephora.
When exquisite qualities of neroli oil and orange flower absolute are produced in Morocco and Tunisia, cheating on emotions and on the true quality of materials will not bring the desired success to BPI. There are at least 2 classic perfumes from Avon, with a better formula, scent and price.
The first perfume of Elie Saab is simply a failure, compared to other perfumes from Sephora, compared to the glorious image of the designer, compared to the idea of the brief.
Francis Kurkdjian has recently demonstrated his huge talent through the perfumes he created for his own brand, like the special edition unveiled this spring. One of them left me speechless because of its beauty and magnificent use of natural floral absolutes. Smelling the perfumes he sells under his name, some of them with a huge amount of high quality natural extracts, and Elie Saab fragrance, the difference between class and mass is impressive.
Also, comparing Elie Saab with the two orange flower perfumes signed by Daniela Andrier in the past, the difference between high class and low standards, between beauty and prettiness is even more shocking.
The Elie Saab perfume is nothing more than a toilet perfume and I wouldn't say that if there was not something highly unusual in Paris. Several cleaning products, including those used by the public system, are highly dosed with a synthetic crystalline orange flower note. You can smell it on some streets in the morning.
Elie Saab Le Parfum is of course a rounder version, with a nice rose note, some sweet balsamic facets, a soft oriental touch suggesting Alien (Mugler).
Why didn't they abuse of orange flower absolute? That was the unique opportunity to frame it in an overdose for the first perfume of a famous Lebanese fashion designer. BPI failed to express a beautiful dream because they do not believe any more in the Perfume.
Official notes for Elie Saab Le Parfum: orange flower, jasmine, honey, patchouli, cedar.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art