Prada Candy loves Infusion de Lavande
Elegant, delicate, beautiful, soft and refined, this is "Pour une Femme" de Chanel, her name is Miuccia, not Gabrielle, and she doesn't wear camellias anymore. The new exclusive perfume from Chanel named Jersey shows the obsession of the perfumers Polge and Sheldrake with the recent creations from Prada. Once again, after they butchered the No19, plagiarizing a recent perfume, it's now official that Chanel house is not able anymore to produce new, original and profound fragrances. Their perfumers are exhausted, lacking both the aesthetic vision and worse, the technical abilities they mastered so well in the past. The beautiful lavender of Chanel Jersey, an exclusive version, is combined with a light vanilla (unlike the heavy lavender-vanilla theme from Pour un Homme de Caron) and surrounded by a huge musky-light aldehydic-powdery orris concrete theme. But the benzoin delicious gourmand note, taking over the freshness of vanilla in less than 10 minutes, is actually a purified anorexic version of the voluptuous caramelic balm of Prada Candy. On skin, the resemblance is very obvious, however, we are not in an oriental theme. But the surprising note comes after one hour, when the true facet of the perfume is revealed, again on skin. It is an obvious tiaré note with a mandarin aldehydic touch, not enough balanced, because the perfume starts to smell like a well known tiaré French shower gel. Here, the floral sweetness is combined with the candy like facet of soft balsamic notes. The beautiful lavender doesn't survive enough and again, the perfume breaks in two during the middle section, revealing the Prada plagiarism, as if it's real name was Prada Infusion de Lavande with a musky hibiscus touch.
On the blotter, a strong orris concrete note, very woody, dry and quite disturbing by its dimension, shows an attempt of Polge senior to suggest Dior Homme of Polge junior. It is an unhappy choice because Jersey lacks the smoothness of Dior Homme and worse, this idea is not working with the skin (unlike the original).
The Prada Candy girl, with a tiaré flower in her hair, took a shower with a Dior Homme soap adding a drop of lavender oil for a soothing effect.
After the glorious perfumes signed with Serge Lutens, Sheldrake simply forgot what a lavender is. Despite this plagiarism, Jersey de Chanel has a very nice, pleasant and seductive start. The lavender note and its sugary undertones (almost licorice) is very refined, but the evolution is not very intelligent. Because I loved the beginning of the perfume (though I'm not a lavender fan) I sprayed a lot on my arm. But after one hour, the signature of the perfume disappeared leaving only the musky-ambrette plus the tiaré effect. The cologne effect is just hideous. A total disappointment because what I loved inside this perfume was not "fixed". In fact, Jersey is just a collection of notes, but these notes are not put into a real perfume, they are not worked enough, they don't blend very well. They took accords from here and there, including several Chanel perfumes. If you compare this poor Prada like perfume with the original Chanel 19, we are miles away from the brilliant perfection. Unfortunately, this is the effect of minimalism in perfumery, often synonymous with bad construction, because there is not enough time to test and work a perfume.
How is it possible to have such a little sillage? Chanel perfumes were once famous for this amazing effect called scent trail, today it is an enigma for Polge and Sheldrake. I loved to smell the original Chanel No 5 (before the reformulation when the formula was changed) on women, today this is impossible. Besides their aesthetic blindness, the in-house Chanel perfumers have lost completely their ability to smell and correctly evaluate a perfume. 90 years after the creation of Chanel No 5 (the original formula is not what is sold today in shops) we are still amazed by the genius of Ernest Beaux. What was once known at Chanel, a notion of quality, refinement, and exquisite construction of perfumes, is totally lost today. If you smell Jersey by Chanel (meant to be an exclusive perfume) and Allure pour femme, launched 15 years ago, it is obvious that only a dramatic change inside the company can help and secure its fragrant future, when the house will celebrate 100 years of Chanel No 5. But that's another story - how can you celebrate 100 years when the original formula of Chanel No5 is not produced anymore and what customers buy is not the fragrance signed by Ernest Beaux?
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art