Myrrhe et Délires, the new introduction from Guerlain, is certainly delicate, shy, fresh but lacks the original force of Myrrhiad (Pierre Guillaume) one of the most exquisite recent introduction featuring the myrrh theme. It is maybe the less interesting from Art et Matière Line.
Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) starts with a strong freshness underlined by delicate accents of grapefruit, probably backed by a subtle dose of licorice, rhubarb and black tea, and unveils very soon a beautiful violet flower. Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) is not far in spirit from an Acqua Allegoria creation, as if you would use it to dilute the strong oriental vanilla of Myrrhiad (Pierre Guillaume), a perfume which is highly prized this season in Paris, I smell it in many places. The combination between sparkling bitter freshness and violet-orris undertones of Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) suggests a very fresh cherry surrounded by a subtle raspberry with an airy rose. The violet note is very reminiscent of the powdery note found in the Météorite line and the discontinued eponymous perfume, as well in the very beautiful room and linen orris fragrance.This violet alone is exquisite, after all, this is one of the key flowers in the early palette of Jacques Guerlain who made ionones and methylionones fashionable between 1890-1910. Let me remind you that a great house doesn't follow the market but dictates the trends. The myrrh note is almost absent in this context and reveals its subtle presence more on the skin. However, after the fresh depart, the perfume turns very quick into a soft orris leather suede note, similar to an accord already found in Art et la Matière Line, and certainly very close to the new Bottega Veneta and La Femme Bleue (Armani). Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) lacks the power of the first and the entire composition lacks personality. Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) is more a mixture of elements with no clear purpose in mind leaving on the skin a faint musky ambery note which can be anything.
The drydown of the perfume reveals also very delicate accents of patchouli and incense, but they are almost undetectable and not relevant to the main theme, being use with the same lack of inspiration as in one version of the recent Arsène Lupin creation. Far from other modern Guerlain, far from Myrrhiad, Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) has a great name, an interesting intention, but doesn't fulfill its mission because it is to shy. It is just soft and pleasant lacking that "je ne sais quoi" of the house.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art