The secret formula will be soon a past in France... For big companies it is not a problem because the success of their amazing perfumes is based on captive molecules protected by patents and years of research. They make Splendione and Toscanol, they are chemists and they know what's a scent.
For the consumers in EU, the opening of the perfume formula is the next step in 2013. It is also what many perfumers from Paris desire. Can you protect a perfume when its formula is a secret? Can you defend a secret in Court? Fragrance protection and fragrance recognition as a ART in Paris comes with a price - total transparency to consumers. No formula, no art. The open formula is also the notion of culture promoted by France - Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité. All citizens have the right to know what's inside their dream scent and they have the right to make and produce a scent, this must not be the monopoly of a "secret scent society". If it is monopoly, then it is an industry, NOT ART, because art means sharing (thoughts, ideas, formulae ....). KILIAN had a brilliant idea when he started to partially show the perfumes he sells with a short formula and writing on every scent blotter "perfume as an art" because this is the future in EU.
If the PERFUME is still considered a luxury item in Paris, the change starts with the compositions used inside cosmetics. Brands might claim a certain notion of secrecy for a perfume. It could be applied also on clothes. But for the perfume used in all cosmetics, they will be obliged to unveil the whole formula, not only the 100 allergens. This is for SAFETY, unless they decide to sell "fragrance free" cosmetics, as I presented in a previous article. NO SECRET SCENT in cosmetics is the strong battle in 2013.
Can you imagine a creation sold to millions of consumers with many suspicions about its allergies and considered an art form, but totally secret for art critics? Art critics favored by a brand which keeps a special relation with them????
This is not ART, this is marketing in 2013. A perfume which can be explained in Paris or New York because you have access to the brand office and cannot be explained in all corners of the world where the perfume is sold and art critics live is not ART.
The ART of Perfumes, as an official recognition, cannot exist without the open formula. Otherwise it is Religion. When people will be able to see the COTY perfume formula they will show the right respect for the art of perfumes, otherwise it is a cult.
This cult, sometime perpetuated by perfumers without a strong history background, is very dangerous. Remember what I've been saying about Origan and L'Heure Bleue because I was very angry when even modern Guerlain started to say the same nonsense. For this reason, every conversation around a classic perfume without knowing what's inside, even when this conversation takes place between those from the industry has nothing to do with art. I remember what a great french perfumer, who launched the other day his last creation in Romania, said at Sorbonne. He was right, and this scented war in EU is also a war between generations and conceptions about perfume.
In Paris, perfume will be officially recognized the moment the SECRET will be unveiled from the long masquerade played even among those working in the cosmetic industry.
This is the JUDGMENT of Paris - you cannot have ART, DREAM, SECRET, SAFETY in the same room and this tremendous change will be brought by EU in 2013 because of the CHANEL scandal.
Allergies to secrecy.
PARIS has to decide if they will preserve the concept of dream (which makes a good industry) or the one of art because both cannot be played today.
The game "we make a dream which is an ART form you must recognize, 100% safe, but a SECRET for you" doesn't please at all EU officials after the CHANEL scandal.
Open formula means also more perfume copies, more job opportunities across EU which sounds very good for the European economy and for those who produce raw materials.
Several years ago, Jean Claude Ellena explained what the concept of Open Formula to the perfume industry during a "tough" debate.
I showed you 80% of a Guerlain original formula, I removed later. Even if I have a huge collection of originals, showing them in public is another question than explaining in private. The person craving to be called Artist has to unveil the work or a major part of it to those whose mission is to make them ARTISTS in front of the World. This is the difference between being Objective (I analyze her object and I present it to you) and Subjective (I speak about her works because she is a good friend of mine). Consumers are concerned only by the objective aspect called allergy.
This question of Open Formula is what the MAD Museum has to solve November 20, otherwise the "Art of Perfume" will be totally discredited by art critics and this notion will be put inside a coffin. When you have no images to present, you discuss a formula, otherwise, speaking about the invisible "forme olfactive" smells like Religion.
"The prevalence of allergic diseases has continued to rise in the industrialized world in the last 50 years. Allergic reactions can vary in severity from being a simple nuisance, to having a significant impact on one’s quality of life and ability to work. Fragrance allergens are one source of these reactions. Fortunately, there is a solution — one that will yield positive health outcomes for the general population and could mean competitive advantage for more transparent companies."
read the article about the right chemistry
If the PERFUME is still considered a luxury item in Paris, the change starts with the compositions used inside cosmetics. Brands might claim a certain notion of secrecy for a perfume. It could be applied also on clothes. But for the perfume used in all cosmetics, they will be obliged to unveil the whole formula, not only the 100 allergens. This is for SAFETY, unless they decide to sell "fragrance free" cosmetics, as I presented in a previous article. NO SECRET SCENT in cosmetics is the strong battle in 2013.
Can you imagine a creation sold to millions of consumers with many suspicions about its allergies and considered an art form, but totally secret for art critics? Art critics favored by a brand which keeps a special relation with them????
This is not ART, this is marketing in 2013. A perfume which can be explained in Paris or New York because you have access to the brand office and cannot be explained in all corners of the world where the perfume is sold and art critics live is not ART.
The ART of Perfumes, as an official recognition, cannot exist without the open formula. Otherwise it is Religion. When people will be able to see the COTY perfume formula they will show the right respect for the art of perfumes, otherwise it is a cult.
This cult, sometime perpetuated by perfumers without a strong history background, is very dangerous. Remember what I've been saying about Origan and L'Heure Bleue because I was very angry when even modern Guerlain started to say the same nonsense. For this reason, every conversation around a classic perfume without knowing what's inside, even when this conversation takes place between those from the industry has nothing to do with art. I remember what a great french perfumer, who launched the other day his last creation in Romania, said at Sorbonne. He was right, and this scented war in EU is also a war between generations and conceptions about perfume.
In Paris, perfume will be officially recognized the moment the SECRET will be unveiled from the long masquerade played even among those working in the cosmetic industry.
This is the JUDGMENT of Paris - you cannot have ART, DREAM, SECRET, SAFETY in the same room and this tremendous change will be brought by EU in 2013 because of the CHANEL scandal.
Allergies to secrecy.
PARIS has to decide if they will preserve the concept of dream (which makes a good industry) or the one of art because both cannot be played today.
The game "we make a dream which is an ART form you must recognize, 100% safe, but a SECRET for you" doesn't please at all EU officials after the CHANEL scandal.
Open formula means also more perfume copies, more job opportunities across EU which sounds very good for the European economy and for those who produce raw materials.
Several years ago, Jean Claude Ellena explained what the concept of Open Formula to the perfume industry during a "tough" debate.
I showed you 80% of a Guerlain original formula, I removed later. Even if I have a huge collection of originals, showing them in public is another question than explaining in private. The person craving to be called Artist has to unveil the work or a major part of it to those whose mission is to make them ARTISTS in front of the World. This is the difference between being Objective (I analyze her object and I present it to you) and Subjective (I speak about her works because she is a good friend of mine). Consumers are concerned only by the objective aspect called allergy.
This question of Open Formula is what the MAD Museum has to solve November 20, otherwise the "Art of Perfume" will be totally discredited by art critics and this notion will be put inside a coffin. When you have no images to present, you discuss a formula, otherwise, speaking about the invisible "forme olfactive" smells like Religion.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art
