Behind the occult secret veil of the perfume industry the new game has a name - Angels and Demons - version 2012. And the Fifth sign was CHANEL....
If the death of Chanel No5 and its upcoming ban inside EU might be justified by the continuous evolution of the formula since 1921, "an old perfume" would say the French competition, the surprise is ANGEL.
Angel and Le Mâle...two iconic perfumes from the 90's contain high amounts of coumarine, an ingredient naturally occurring in Tonka beans, like the new imperial version imagined recently by Guerlain.
The iconic 1992 perfume from Thierry Mugler, with its short 20+ formula, the Shalimar of the new generation, is meant to disappear. After the leather version, a remarkable exercise in creation and technology, ANGEL's skin is ready to be embalmed ... Forbidden because its high content in "oriental" ingredients - coumarin.
"Chanel No 5 has never done any harm to anyone," said Sylvie Jourdet of the French perfumer's society. "It is the death of perfume if this continues. The more you use natural ingredients, the more there is a risk of allergies. Lemon, jasmine, bergamot all contain allergenics." (read the article in Telegraph)
"Other perfumes at risk for reformulation include Miss Dior, Guerlain's Shalimar and Angel by Thierry Mugler. Brands would be required to list any of the 100 allergens present in the fragrance (right now, they're only required to list 26). As a result of the regulations, the affected fragrances would be forced to create new formulas in spite of an extremely limited selection of natural ingredients." (read the article in Huffingtonpost)
Without ANGEL, Thierry Mugler can close the house. The main accord was repeated inside all major perfumes of the house. The fragrance house has a very bold and characteristic style expressed precisely by the new interpretation of the oriental Shalimar theme, unlike Dior where there is only an abstract theme and not a very characteristic palette today.
Paris says "Adieu Le Mâle!". The iconic masculine from Jean Paul Gaultier dies too, there is too much coumarin inside and another big allergen, the "monster" of all cosmetic creams with a big L. One by one, the classic fougère notes and their soft oriental interpretations are disappearing. They all contain coumarin and mosses.
Do you remember the scandal about ANGEL which took place several years ago? Now, those who accused the brand of so many things can celebrate its end. ANGEL received such a bad advertising for the doctors that the worse things imagined are expected in July 2013.
Why would EU need forests when everybody is on Facebook and other virtual lands?
And GOD made koumalactone .... A perfumer can work without these ingredients meant to be banned or highly restricted, but now there is also a new labeling. Can you write 100 allergens? No way .... Brands will require such a strict control that naturals will be forbidden in Paris unless they are really needed. New packaging, new costs .... new fears. And no naturals inside a face cream because there is no space to write so many allergens! No more phytocosmetics! EU says ADIEU aromatherapy in perfume and cosmetics, unless you are a pharmaceutical brand. 15 years ago perfumers launched creations inspired by aromatherapy principles (I have in mind the Guerlain trio). Now, it is the END in the new CODEX, the life is extracted from the mainstream perfumes.
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Fragrance is the 8th Art - Octavian Coifan - Le Parfum est le 8ème Art